We then hit the Pahoa post office to mail something. The parking lot was packed when we got there and moments later completely empty. I guess locals are efficient with their errands.
Fueled and ready for take-off, we headed up the road to Akaka Falls. Remarkably larger than its down-the-road neighbor Rainbow Falls, Akaka is worth the trip not only for its own majesty but also for its verdant surroundings. The park has an easy paved walkway for visitors to view the lush scenery.
We enjoyed the stroll, and spotted a couple rainbows on the falls.
On our way back, we stumbled across a pleasant surprise: the little strip of town known as Honomu. Somehow this hamlet was completely off my radar, but the main drag has a host of shops, galleries, restaurants and a delightful bakery. I had a difficult time choosing, but I went with a cream bun - sweet bread pastry with bavarian cream filling. Yum.
I later read in a guide book that the pastries were poor tasting. I disagree.
The next town on the highway was Laupahoehoe, the once seaside village destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Now a small, mauka (mountainside) town, Laupahoehoe has just a few buildings (including a train musuem, which we saved for a future visit). Instead, we continued past town a few miles to Laupahoehoe Point - the northernmost point on the island. Once the town's center, the area is now both a park and monument to those teachers and school children who lost their lives in 1946.
The park is well maintained, with a large grassy area, beach volleyball pit and barbeques. The scenery is quite breathtaking, too.
From Laupahohoe Point, we continued on our journey through another small town, Honoka`a. Most people whip through this town on their way to view Waipi`o Valley (aka Valley of the Kings). Once past town the regular road ends at a lookout. For those whose cars can handle it, there is a 25% grade steep road leading down to the valley. The valley was once thriving, home to many Kings and an agricultural paradise. The tsunamis obliterated the crops, though, and only recently has there been a movement to re-settle the valley.
The community who lives there currently are off the grid, supposedly unfriendly to tourists and solve all disputes themselves rather than involve the local authorities.
Just back Honoka`a, there is a shopping center with Tex's Drive-In. The food is said to be mediocre, but their malasadas (Portuguese donuts) are famous all over the State. So we just had to try one!
The place was bustling at lunch, with people gathering at the outside tables enjoying the food and sunshine.
With only donuts in my system, I was beginning to crave real food. We drove through the manicured and lively town of Waimea - home to Parker Ranch. However, we decided to keep pushing through to the Kohala Coast as we had our hearts set on Tommy Bahamas Cafe at the Mauna Lani Shops. The town, at a higher elevation, is misty and cooler than much of the island. I was surprised by its sprawl. I can see why people choose to spend an entire day exploring it. It is unlike any other place on the island. With all the ranch lanch and rolling hills, it feels like you're in central California.
We made our way to Mauna Lani shops only to learn that Tommy Bahama would not be open until 4pm. For the first time on the trip, we really felt the drought of tourism in this shopping center. Or else maybe they just generally are quiet on Tuesday afternoons.
We used our handy Big Island Dining guide and spotted a Mexican place opened for lunch in the town of Kawaihae. Kawaihae, just up the coast, is a small harbor town. It features the original Cafe Pesto, an art gallery, a restaurant/music venue called the Blue Dragon and Tres Hombres. It was a nice setting for a relaxing lunch.
After lunch I dropped into the gallery to learn that all the artists featured lived on the Big Island - pretty cool. We then backtracked a bit to visit the Pu`ukohola State Park
Free of charge, the park is a well-run operation on the grounds of three important heiau (ancient Hawaiian temples built for spiritual purposes). The most famous of the three, Pu`uokohola was built by Kamehameha the Great. He was told if we built this great heiau, then he would unify the islands. Ultimately, this became true.
The other visible heiau was used a fort during battle, while the other is now underwater but served as a temple to the sharks. The park is set up against a beach that was known to be frequented (and still is apparently) by sharks. Some Hawaiians revered sharks and believed them to be aumakua (spiritual ancestors).
Next we needed to cool off, as we were traveling through the hottest and driest part of the island. Dan spotted a great little spot for swimming and snorkeling called Kapa`a. We enjoyed the refreshing water and saw some kids fishing.
Refreshed (and a bit salty), we headed north to the quaint towns of Hawi and Kapa`au. Both towns have been experiencing a bit of a renaissance lately, with many artists and small businesses moving in. I was impressed by how tidy the main streets were, with freshly painted facades and well-kept sidewalks.
The second town, Kapa`au has one of the Kamehameha Statues.
We took many mental notes of places to come back to some day in both of these towns.
Just past Kapa`au the road ends at the Pololu Valley lookout. While not as epic as Waipi`o, this valley is impressive and lush all the same.
Today we also visited the fourth (and westernmost) compass point of the island, at `Upolu Point. Just like at South point, we saw huge windmills.
On our journey back to Kapoho, we took Highway 250 to cut back to Highway 19. It was a windy, but scenic route through the Kohala Mountains.
By the time we reached Pahoa it was nightfall and we were just in time to grab a bit at the Pahoa Village Cafe (now our third restaurant in Pahoa). It's a large venue, with the usual local fare on the menu. I had to have chicken katsu (a craving I'd had since this morning). They have local beers on tap, a stage and dance floor and a variety of entertainment. Tonight was a mellow night, which was probably for the best as we were pretty wiped out from our long day. We have now seen the entire island!
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