Kalama Days

This past weekend we decided to finally make it to the Kalama Heritage Festival (commonly known as Kalama Days), a three-day celebration of both Hawaiian and Native American cultures. The festival takes place in the eponymous town of Kalama, named after John Kalama. John was a Native Hawaiian who married a Native American, and raised a large family in the area. They became sort of a "first family" of Cowlitz County; thus, the town is named after them.

Now in its 5th year, the festival is produced by Hale o'Halawai O Hawai'i, a non-profit, multicultural organization dedicated to preserving the traditional Polynesian, Pacific Islanders, and Native Americans' blended bloodlines culture and heritage through educational programs, services, community performances, and outreach programs. (per web site)

The festival took place at the lovely Port of Kalama Marine Park, right up against the Columbia River. As we parked our car, we walked past a lei making demonstration. There were several food vendors, ranging from Hawaiian local (shave ice, teri chicken) to the more common fair items (elephant ears, banana splits). We opted to pay for the lu`au and conert (Makaha Sons were the headliner).

In the park, arranged in a square were various vendors selling items or propogating literature. Some were the usual Hawaiian crafts, other were a bit baffling like the US Census and Church of Latter Day Saints. I guess all in the name of aloha.

We did not have time for any of the workshops or lectures. We caught the tail end of the `imu ceremony and then we walked around the park until it was time for lu`au seating. The weather perked up just in time for lu`au seating at 5:00. Perhaps we are getting jaded with all the Hawaiian food we eat, but I have to say I was a bit disappointed with the spread. No poi? No lomi lomi salmon? Green salad, watermelon and bread? But the kalua pig was tasty, and the haupia scored several points. I had never had it with toasted coconut on top. Nice touch.

Then came the entertainment. The opening acts were Alika Nako`oka and Naki`i. We enjoyed some hapa haole tunes with our meal, and then came the headliners. First, Keahi Conjugacion performed, a relative of Brother Noland. She concentrated most of her set on smooth Island jazz. And talked quite a bit. The show ran very late, and it was close to 8:30 when Makaha Sons finally took the stage. But they were worth the wait. When the three men harmonize, it sounds like something from another world (as Dan commented). They sing beautifully, play beautifully and electrify the stage with their presence, ease and confidence. I cannot wait to see them again, but not after sitting in one place for 4 hours!

All in all, it was a relaxing escape from the city. We got to stay at a Red Lion in Kelso, Washington - that doesn't happen very often.

Next we look forwad to the Live Aloha Festival coming up on September 13th!

Mele and friends at Kaua`i Family Restaurant

Our friend Gary Medeiros is a local kine hero, with his male falsetto mastery and command of the `ukulele. He plays all over town, often with Auntie Manu. In fact, he was recently in Idaho performing. We first met him at last year's Live Aloha Festival in Seattle Center, and then saw him again playing at the luau after the Pineapple Classic. We are lucky to have such a talented kanaka in our midst.


One of Gary's regular gigs is the brunch hour at Kaua`i Family Restaurant. We made it once before, but that was too long ago. So this morning we decided to head down to Georgetown for some `ono food, friendly service and mele nani (beautiful music).



Gary and friends did not disappoint. Dressed in black to (not celebrate) Hawai`i 50th anniversary as a State, the trio played the duration with many impromptu hula intermixed from the lively audience.

There was a special on the menu to commemorate the anniversary -- poke and kalua pig steak with cabbage. Dan couldn't resist that, and at 5.99 the price could not be beat. I went with the traditional rice, eggs and bacon breakfast. Of course any trip to Kaua`i Family Restaurant necessitates grabbing a hold of a big brown bag of goodness - malasadas. The Portuguese donuts are a blissful way to heart disease, fried in coconut oil and not as sweet as your typical bakery donut.



We were blessed with a visit from our old friend Jerry, who we just don't get to see enough of these days. We introduced him to the malasada, to which he concurred was heavenly.

If you are looking for an authentic Hawaiian local experience with refreshingly low prices, Kaua`i Family Restaurant is hard to beat. The bakery/gift shop next door is worth a look, too. The guava and passion fruit cakes come in individual servings, and are very seductive. (They are closed Sunday and Monday).

Google adds `olelo Hawai`i!

Hawaiian language added to Google

By Rob Shikina

POSTED: 01:30 a.m. HST, Aug 07, 2009



Next time you do a search on the Web, you could be selecting "Huli ia Google," the Hawaiian words for "search Google."


COURTESY KEOLA DONAGHY
Hawaiian words and sentences have been added to the Google search engine. Shown
here, a screen shot of Google's search page in Hawaiian.



The Hawaiian language version of Google's search engine is now available on Apple's Safari browser through a project by a University of Hawaii-Hilo assistant professor, who also translated the Netscape Web browser in 1997.

Keola Donaghy of the Ke Haka 'Ula O Ke'elikolani College of Hawaiian Language estimates he spent 100 hours creating the translation. The Hawaiian version provides instructions in Hawaiian on Google's search engine, but results are still in English.

To complete the translation, Keola provided Hawaiian versions of 2,500 "strings" -- words, sentences or paragraphs used by Google's search engine.

For three years, Keola had been trying to persuade Google to add Hawaiian to the dozens of other languages available.

Last year, Te Taka Keegan, a lecturer at the University of Waikato in New Zealand, opened the door for Donaghy while working at Google.

Keegan had created a Maori language version for Google that took about eight years, he said by e-mail.

A Hawaiian version "will give native Hawaiians a sense of pride, a sense of identity and a confirmation that their language has real purpose in today's modern society," he wrote.

Donaghy said the translation will positively affect the Hawaiian community.

"It tells our children that the Hawaiian language is on par with the other languages of the world," he said. "It increases the status of the language in their eyes and also around the world."

Google's Hawaiian version can be accessed after selecting olelo Hawaii, or Hawaiian language, inside the system preferences on Apple.

The Hawaiian version for all Web browsers will be available as soon as the end of this week, Donaghy said.

Keola wants Hawaiian language to be available in as many contexts as possible and is trying to persuade Facebook to add a Hawaiian interface.

"We live in a society where telecommunications is a huge part of our life," he said. "For us to ignore that world, we are saying the Hawaiian language doesn't belong here."







Copyright © 2009 starbulletin. com

http://www.starbull etin.com/ news/20090807_ Hawaiian_ language_ added_to_ Google.html

NW Hawai`i Times Lives On!

Sadly, this past year the slumping economy got the best of our beloved Northwest Hawai`i Times. It is no more, but we just learned that one of its most celebrated columnists has resurrected his two monthly columns on-line!

You can now catch Uncle Danny at his new blog called "Holoholo Northwest." Here he will be posting both his Holoholo column (what's new about town, Hawai`i-style) and Kama`aina Profile (featuring a former island local now living in the PNW area).

Mahalo to Uncle Danny for keeping the aloha alive!

Candles with Aloha

Our friend Keoni just launched a Hawaiian-scented candle business! Check him out!

http://www.maikalanicandles.com

Keeping Aloha Alive on the Mainland

Well, we've been back on the mainland now for 12 days. In addition to catching up on our jobs, house work, family and friends, we've been trying to keep that palpable spirit of aloha pumping through our veins.

As Dan wrote about on this food blog, we spent our first day back visiting the Hawai`i General Store and Luau Polynesian Lounge, two Seattle venues that pass the aloha test.

While I am on a slew of mailing lists for local Hawaiian events, often life gets in the way -- or rather, I let it. Last night was the first step forward in not letting that happen as we are missing out on some local treasures. Every week there are concerts, films, luaus and craft fairs that bring people together to celebrate the islands.

So, on a humble Wednesday evening (a very sunny one at that), we set out after work to Central Cinema. Central Cinema is a movie theater that also serves food. And not just snacks. Pizzas, salads, calzones. And beer and wine. The entire front section of the theater is situated with "tablettes" -- two person sitting areas with a small table area that resembles a counter or bar.



The reason we were there? I received an email while we were on the Big Island about a night of short films featuring Hawaiian filmmakers and hula. I was determined to make it so I did not erase the email.

The night centered around young filmmaker Christen Marquez, and her work-in-progress documentary "Huku Inoa: To Weave a Name." Christen was born on Oahu, but left for the mainland at a young age along with her father and brothers. Her mother, diagnosed schizophrenic, stayed behind. Christen was given her inoa (name) by her mother, a mele (poem) that Christen could never discern. Finally, she made the decision to journey back to Oahu and find out the truth. Obstacles ensue and cultural differences float to the surface.

The night began with three hula performances by Christen herself (who proclaimed she was a filmmaker who does hula and not a hula dancer who makes films). I thought she was lovely. She began with a hapa haole hula (mostly English with some Hawaiian words sprinkled in), moved to a protest hula (protesting the overthrow of the Monarachy in 1893) and closing with a somber but beautiful hula about forbidden love.



The night then segued into a showcase of three Hawai`i-based filmmakers: one experimental, one animation and one narrative. We thought the animation ("Ipo Lei Manu") was particularly impressive. It followed the words to Queen Kapiolani's last poem to her husband, King Kalaukaua, while he was abroad. Kalakaua died on that trip and never got to read his wife's beautiful words.



Christen showed both her very first short (made when she was 17!) and then came the headliner. The film, which will be 60 minutes when completed, shows much potential. PBS Hawai`i has been giving her much support, but she still has a long way to go to fund the remainder of the production.

Christen's website has more information, including a trailer for her film and a place for people to donate.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 22

This morning we awoke early - before 6am - and finished the last bits of packing and cleaning. It was hard to say goodbye to what had become our home for the last two weeks, but we left in good spirits.

We made one final stop (for this trip, anyway) to Sirius Coffee on our way to the airport so I could get my iced coffee fix. I wish more places in Seattle sold iced coffee. Other than Starbucks, it seems that most places only offer an iced americano (also good, but not the same thing).

After a quick check-in at the Hilo airport, I wandered around a bit. They are doing a lot of construction, and hopefully will be adding a few more restaurants/shops. I decided to wait until Honolulu to spend any money, and then retired to the sitting area and read my book, side by side with Dan.



The flight to Honolulu was very quick, less than 40 minutes and then we had three hours to spend in Honolulu. It was a perfectly clear day, and we welcomed the chance to linger a bit. We perused some shops, bought some magazines (and mac nut popcorn for the plane) before heading to Kona Brewing Company for some drinks and nachos. It's a comfortable space, even though it is now longer a Stinger Ray's. Service was great.



Our long flight home was pleasantly uneventful. I finished the novel I bought in Hilo on Thursday, called Simple Life. It is written by Big Island resident Mia King, and tells the story of a Manhattan family who relocates to Waimea. The wife, and protagonist, begins to unravel as her marriage (and world) falls out from under her when she realizes Paradise isn't all massages and pool-side cocktails. One chapter was missing, but I was able to fill in the blanks pretty well. It's a fast read, and offers some keen insight into facing one's own need to change in light of how others are impacted. The protagonist was not particularly likeable, but I think that was partly the point. The story showed how displacement can be a catalyst for positive change, and emotional repair.



Around 10pm, after seeing fireworks from the plane, we landed at Sea-Tac. It felt comforting to be back on our home turf, and the ease of catching a cab and the 70 degree heat helped with the transition to Mainland life.

Having adjusted to Island time, we were up past midnight catching up on TV and giving longer overdue affection to our cat (who seemed to miss us dearly).

This may have been our best trip to Hawai`i yet. But then, they just keep getting better. Soon it will be time to start planning the next one. We have now visited 4 of the main islands - Oahu, Kaua`i, Moloka`i and of course the Big Island. While Kaho`o lawe and Ni`ihau require special permission, Maui and Lana`i are open to us any time. On the flight home, we made a remaining to-do list for the Big Island, and I doubt it will be long before we return there. The 3 nights somewhere else before returning "home" worked out very well, and may work as a model for future trips. We shall see. For now, we'll unpack and revel in the joy of this glorious time we've had together in our favorite place--and hopefully keep the aloha alive to share with others back home.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 21

Today was our last full day on the Big Island. Our flight out of Hilo tomorrow is fairly early (9:40am) and then we spend a great deal of the day at the Honolulu airport (which we plan to utilize as continued vacation time!).

We decided to get much of the packing and cleaning out of the way early this morning so it wasn't hanging over us throughout the day. By the time we finished, the sun came out and we enjoyed one last day in Lagoon Shangrila - the sun, the birds, the lizards, the lagoon, the hot tub. Dan made us fresh leis!



With a three week vacation in Paradise, one may expect an epiphany or some sort of revelation. I am not sure either of us has had anything so dramatic, but this morning on my jog I came to realize just how relaxed, calm, energized and confident I feel. I will bring this feeling back to the mainland, along with the Kona coffee and macademia nuts.



This being our third visit together to the Big Island, we've been able to dig a little deeper. See things a bit more from the local side, and explore more of the vast terrain. But more on impressions when we return.

We will surely miss this place.



In late afternoon, we decided to take one final stroll down to the tide pools for one last snorkel (for this trip). While a bit spooked from Wednesday's drowning, we had a few days to let it sink (bad choice of words) in. The tide pools are a safe place, and one that gives us great pleasure. While the tragedy might make us a bit more aware, we won't let it keep us out of the water. Withdrawing out of fear is just not the way to lead a full life. However, this time we used floaty devices and I loved it. I laid across a little board and enjoyed the fish and coral while feeling the sun on my back!

In keeping with the theme of indelibly etched positive memories, we headed back to Pahoa for our final supper on the Big Island. This time we tried Kaleo's, an Italian-fusion restaurant right at the beginning of the strip. We were first met by a greeter in the parking lot who told us where to park. At that point I knew this would not be a typical Pahoa joint. In fact, it was not at all. We walked into candles, red walls and a romantic atmosphere. Slowly, the parking lot filled and we can see why: this place is golden! Dan will write more about it.



Back at the house, we did some final packing and then lit all the tiki torches for one last round in the hot tub.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 20

This morning we ventured over to the Mauna Loa Macademia Nut factory, near the Panaewa Zoo. As far as we know, it is the largest mac nut manufacturer. We began by browsing the visitor center, which is mostly a gift shop (with free samples). Then we took the self-guided tour of the factory, where we peered through glass to watch the workers and machinery. There were videos to go along with each stations (ie, salting, sorting, glazing, packaging, etc).



It was neat to see the nuts move along the assembly and shoot down slides. I love those shows on the Travel Channel that go inside candy factories to learn how it's all made, and this felt sort of like that experience (without voice over).



On the 3 mile drive toward the factory, we passed many mac nut tree. Mac nuts can only be harvested once they have fallen to the ground. They then have to have both their husks and shells removed before moving along in the process for consumption.



Taste buds aroused, we headed into Hilo for one final stop at Basically Books. We both had a heck of a time deciding on books for the flight home. I ended up going with a collection of stories by Jack London describing his time in Hawai`i and a novel by a local Big Island author. Dan found a book about a couple who move to the Big Island from the mainland and try to live off the grid (and learn it's not so easy).

After going into Pahoa for daily errands for so many days, it felt comforting to be back in Hilo (the "big city"). We had lunch at Cronie's again, and I ended up eating another Caesar salad (this time, with chicken). The food and drinks were great, but more than anything we were craving that Hilo hospitality. Perhaps it just comes with living in a port town and wanting to please the customer for the sake of business. People in Hilo seem to be the friendliest, and happiest people on the island.



After lunch we perused a massive furniture store before zipping over to the Lyman Museum to use our rain check. We viewed the upstairs with a more careful eye, and even wandered through the downstairs exhibits again. The staff there was friendly as always, though we were unable to figure out if Dan's cousin still works there as no one seemed to know.



I had so much energy today that I went running twice. We enjoyed our L&L leftovers and the remainders of our desserts from Island Naturals.

Tomorrow will be our last full day on the Big Island. We haven't decided how to spend it just yet, but a portion of it will be designated for packing and cleaning up the house.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 19

Today began on a sober note, as Dan witnessed a man drown in the Kapoho Tide Pools. The man was later identified as Hamilton Manley. A recent news story can be found here. Obviously, the experience left Dan shook up. After hearing the helicopters and aid units come rushing by the house, it was then time for the monthly Tsunami Practice Warning. It takes place at 11:45 am on the first working day of each month. We are situated in an evacuation area, and had already checked to see where we would need to run to in the event of the real thing. The warning is simply a practice, not a drill. It's a time to give pause, to think about what one would do if/when the real thing happens.

Tragedy, both real and potential, did not get the best of us. We decided to take a run/walk down to Ahalanui and enjoy the warm and safe swimming pond there. The sun was intense at the beginning of our run, but by the time we reached the park it began to pour. The pond was packed, and it was an extremely surreal sight to see so many people inside the pond with a torrential downpour. But the water sure felt great!



After walking back to the house, we felt we deserved an adult beverage. We headed to Pahoa, to what has been one of our favorite little Mexican joints on the island, Luquin's. Whenever we stop in, lunch or dinner, the waitresses are always shoving their famous margaritas down our throats. So we figured stopping in just for a drink or two would be fine. Apparently, not on Wednesdays. Or this Wednesday. I'm fine with people deciding to go dry, but only if it makes sense and it's clear to the customer. It's annoying to serve one day and not the other for seemingly arbitrary reasons. The waitress had an increduclous response when we asked for a drink menu, too, as if we should have known better. Strange, since every other spot in town was serving.



While we were in town, and perfectly sober, we decided to check out the new Pahoa Village Museum. Still in its nascent stage, it's a bit unfocused but shows potential. We were expecting to learn more about the history of Pahoa, but much of the museum is dedicated to Mauna Kea with a slight political bent. The rest of the museum showcases some old Hawaiian photographs from the old Waikiki Golden Age, some maps, odds and ends and stencil drawings of birds.



The back of the museum is also used as an entertainment venue and the front end has a small smoothie bar.

After the museum, we headed to Island Naturals for some of their tempting desserts (for later) and some locally brewed beer. We then rested up for our night lava hike.

Dan had called the lava hotlines this morning, and learned that we weren't allowed to get very close to the streaming flow into the water. But we still enjoyed the experience. We drove down the Red Road until it stops at Kalapana (which was destroyed by the Volcano in 1990). There is a convenience store, snack shack, kava bar and a few lava exhibits at the juncture.





The hike is all on fairly new lava rock, and continues to a nice beach. Off to our right we could see the vast plumes of steam. However, we did not see red. Some people say that if you stay past dusk you can see some "fireworks" within the plumes, but we weren't sure about that. It was a pleasant walk, and we did get some good photos.





We then hit Pahoa for our first L&L experience. Boy, talk about a dangerous fast-food joint. I had to stop myself from gorging on my entire container of curry chicken, fried rice, chow mein and mochiko chicken. I had no idea they had a Chinese buffet in addition to all the Hawaiian favorites.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 18

Today we set out to take the "Upper Road" across the island to see the Hamakua Coast and then the northwest pocket. The day began, not surprisingly, with a stop at Sirius Coffee in Pahoa for my iced coffee.

We then hit the Pahoa post office to mail something. The parking lot was packed when we got there and moments later completely empty. I guess locals are efficient with their errands.



Fueled and ready for take-off, we headed up the road to Akaka Falls. Remarkably larger than its down-the-road neighbor Rainbow Falls, Akaka is worth the trip not only for its own majesty but also for its verdant surroundings. The park has an easy paved walkway for visitors to view the lush scenery.




We enjoyed the stroll, and spotted a couple rainbows on the falls.



On our way back, we stumbled across a pleasant surprise: the little strip of town known as Honomu. Somehow this hamlet was completely off my radar, but the main drag has a host of shops, galleries, restaurants and a delightful bakery. I had a difficult time choosing, but I went with a cream bun - sweet bread pastry with bavarian cream filling. Yum.



I later read in a guide book that the pastries were poor tasting. I disagree.



The next town on the highway was Laupahoehoe, the once seaside village destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Now a small, mauka (mountainside) town, Laupahoehoe has just a few buildings (including a train musuem, which we saved for a future visit). Instead, we continued past town a few miles to Laupahoehoe Point - the northernmost point on the island. Once the town's center, the area is now both a park and monument to those teachers and school children who lost their lives in 1946.



The park is well maintained, with a large grassy area, beach volleyball pit and barbeques. The scenery is quite breathtaking, too.



From Laupahohoe Point, we continued on our journey through another small town, Honoka`a. Most people whip through this town on their way to view Waipi`o Valley (aka Valley of the Kings). Once past town the regular road ends at a lookout. For those whose cars can handle it, there is a 25% grade steep road leading down to the valley. The valley was once thriving, home to many Kings and an agricultural paradise. The tsunamis obliterated the crops, though, and only recently has there been a movement to re-settle the valley.



The community who lives there currently are off the grid, supposedly unfriendly to tourists and solve all disputes themselves rather than involve the local authorities.



Just back Honoka`a, there is a shopping center with Tex's Drive-In. The food is said to be mediocre, but their malasadas (Portuguese donuts) are famous all over the State. So we just had to try one!



The place was bustling at lunch, with people gathering at the outside tables enjoying the food and sunshine.



With only donuts in my system, I was beginning to crave real food. We drove through the manicured and lively town of Waimea - home to Parker Ranch. However, we decided to keep pushing through to the Kohala Coast as we had our hearts set on Tommy Bahamas Cafe at the Mauna Lani Shops. The town, at a higher elevation, is misty and cooler than much of the island. I was surprised by its sprawl. I can see why people choose to spend an entire day exploring it. It is unlike any other place on the island. With all the ranch lanch and rolling hills, it feels like you're in central California.

We made our way to Mauna Lani shops only to learn that Tommy Bahama would not be open until 4pm. For the first time on the trip, we really felt the drought of tourism in this shopping center. Or else maybe they just generally are quiet on Tuesday afternoons.



We used our handy Big Island Dining guide and spotted a Mexican place opened for lunch in the town of Kawaihae. Kawaihae, just up the coast, is a small harbor town. It features the original Cafe Pesto, an art gallery, a restaurant/music venue called the Blue Dragon and Tres Hombres. It was a nice setting for a relaxing lunch.



After lunch I dropped into the gallery to learn that all the artists featured lived on the Big Island - pretty cool. We then backtracked a bit to visit the Pu`ukohola State Park



Free of charge, the park is a well-run operation on the grounds of three important heiau (ancient Hawaiian temples built for spiritual purposes). The most famous of the three, Pu`uokohola was built by Kamehameha the Great. He was told if we built this great heiau, then he would unify the islands. Ultimately, this became true.



The other visible heiau was used a fort during battle, while the other is now underwater but served as a temple to the sharks. The park is set up against a beach that was known to be frequented (and still is apparently) by sharks. Some Hawaiians revered sharks and believed them to be aumakua (spiritual ancestors).



Next we needed to cool off, as we were traveling through the hottest and driest part of the island. Dan spotted a great little spot for swimming and snorkeling called Kapa`a. We enjoyed the refreshing water and saw some kids fishing.





Refreshed (and a bit salty), we headed north to the quaint towns of Hawi and Kapa`au. Both towns have been experiencing a bit of a renaissance lately, with many artists and small businesses moving in. I was impressed by how tidy the main streets were, with freshly painted facades and well-kept sidewalks.

The second town, Kapa`au has one of the Kamehameha Statues.



We took many mental notes of places to come back to some day in both of these towns.

Just past Kapa`au the road ends at the Pololu Valley lookout. While not as epic as Waipi`o, this valley is impressive and lush all the same.





Today we also visited the fourth (and westernmost) compass point of the island, at `Upolu Point. Just like at South point, we saw huge windmills.



On our journey back to Kapoho, we took Highway 250 to cut back to Highway 19. It was a windy, but scenic route through the Kohala Mountains.

By the time we reached Pahoa it was nightfall and we were just in time to grab a bit at the Pahoa Village Cafe (now our third restaurant in Pahoa). It's a large venue, with the usual local fare on the menu. I had to have chicken katsu (a craving I'd had since this morning). They have local beers on tap, a stage and dance floor and a variety of entertainment. Tonight was a mellow night, which was probably for the best as we were pretty wiped out from our long day. We have now seen the entire island!