Hawai`i 2009: Day 12

Today we found ourselves back in little, old Hilo. After a hearty breakfast at Ken's (so Dan could finally get his fix of mac-nut pancakes), we took advantage once again of the Wednesday Hilo Farmer's Market. We only needed a few items for dinner, but were also talked into some delicious green salsa after tasting it, and a bar of soap made right here on the Big Island.

On our walk to the market, we came across these chickens.



From there we drove up the road to Wailoa Park - a spot we always marvel at when we drive by but until today had never set foot in. Prior to the great tsunamis, the park was a Japanese neighborhood known as Shinmachi. When that neighborhood was destroyed (along with neighboring Waikea), the area was turned into a park.



The Wailoa River runs through the park, and there are several curvy bridges connecting the different areas. There are fishing spots, a few pavillions, picnic tables, and several different types of ducks.




After touring the expansive park, we stopped at the Wailoa Center to take a peak. There was an expo of local photographer's work so we browsed around. Some really nice work -- and even a picture of Tacoma!



Before getting back in the car, we stopped to take a few photos of the second Kamehameha statue we've seen on the trip (the third is in Hawi, up the Kohala coast).



Heading back up Highway 11, our next stop was the Prince Kuhio Plaza. Yes, that would be a shopping mall. As we spend more time here, we get curious as the how the locals live and wanted to check out the major shopping mall in Hilo.



It's pretty much like any other mall, with a Sears, Macy's, food court, movie theater, athletic wear, toys, gadgets and a few local flavors. It has anything one would really need. Dan tried on a few hats, but did not find any to his liking.



The mall shares a parking lot with Hilo Hattie's, and it was time for our requisite visit for some free shell leis, kona coffee and a few other treats. We can find many similar items back in Seattle at the Hawai`i General Store (while supporting a local small business) so we tried not to go too crazy. It is a fun place to shop, though, and the staff is always very friendly and helpful without being too pushy.



Our last stop of the day was a place we generally avoid like the plague - WalMart - but we were searching for cheap DVDs. Since we have the time, we thought this vacation would be a good time to get into a new show. The other night we caught an episode of HBO's True Blood and found it compelling enough to invest in. So we picked up season one for a decent price, along with the latest issue of Big Island Weekly before heading back to Kapoho. Also, this trip to WalMart was much less stressful than last year when we were under pressure to pick up all the last-minute wedding details--and seemed less crazy/crowded than in time's past. Perhaps it was the time of day, or the economy.



Notice we don't talk a lot about the nightlife here. There is one, though small and generally centers around a few small venues with local musicians. Because we do so much during the day, and then cook our dinner at the house, we generally call it a day and relax with TV or books in the evening. We're kind of homebodies, though, and if one is looking for a more active nightlife on the Big Island it can surely be had. Each issue of The Big Island Weekly has a "pau hana" (after work) calendar for bands playing in bars, as well as a regular weekly calendar listing the various plays, concerts, festivals, activities, etc. happening around the island. There are also movie theaters with first-run movies.

One nightlife adventure we hope to partake in on this trip is the lava hike to see the red flow into the ocean.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 11

Today started with a gorgeous morning - one of the nicest we've had so far. And, our sun burns were fading so we felt like we could enjoy the sunshine again.



We decided we needed some adventure so we headed out to the Eastern most point on the island by braving the red dirt road that picks up at the end of Highway 132 near where we are staying. This point, near a light tower, is considered to have some of the most pristine air in the entire world. Governments around the globe use it as a benchmark to compare to their air. (Hawaii the Big Island Revealed, 5th Edition).



But we were not there to test air. We made it as far as we could in our rental car and then braved the long, but beautiful, hike on jagged lava rock (a`a) until we reached our destination: Champagne Pond. While not drinkable, the pond is a naturally warmed, calm, clear ocean inlet. It's perfect for warming the bones, and seeing some fish. While not a snorkeler's paradise, we did enjoy seeing some fish and a moray eel. I particularly enjoyed the ease of getting in and out of the water -- and you can't beat 90 degree water!



This is definitely a hit, and worth the extra effort of finding it.



The hike back worked up our appetites and thirst so we headed back to our home away from vacation home (Malama Market) to pick up a few more supplies before lunch and cocktail hour. I enjoyed some leisurely time in the yard, finishing up the book I picked up in Hilo on the History of the Big Island.

Dogs like the pond, too.



DanG got the snorkeling bug later in the afternoon so he wandered down to the Kapoho Tide Pools again. After finishing up my book and cleaning up the house a bit, I jogged down to meet him. The waters were starting to get rough so he called it a day, and I went for a nice run around the neighborhood. The air on one of the roads I run on smells like slow roasted maple syrup. I wonder what that is? The other day I foraged a coconut on my run and brought it back for Dan.



After a bit more outdoor time, I held back, not wanting to drift back toward the red zone. DanG finished up a scrumptious dinner (homemade Kalua Pig - and enough to eat for days!), tended to his own sun burns and we planned out tomorrow morning.

While 10 nights is a decent time away from the daily routine and often is enough to make me feel replenished, I think something deeper starts to set in after that.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 10

We awoke at 5:00am today to see the sunrise down by the tide pools. However, it was overcast, and then began to pour rain. We could not find shelter, did not have umbrellas and were generally a little too out of sorts to push through. So, back to bed until a more reasonable 8:00am rise.

Today was massage day at Kalani so I thought I'd do a little epsom salts treatment on my sun burn. As far as sun burns goes, this one is mid-range. I've had much worse, though this one does seem to be a bit stubborn - even after 2 days of non-stop aloe treatment. I spotted the epsom salts in the one of the bathrooms and then read on-line that they were a common remedy for sun burns. After dousing a wash cloth in the salty mixture, as suggested, I began rubbing it on the affected areas.

And then the itching started. I don't know if it was coincidence, an allergic reaction or bad espom salts but I was borderline miserable for about 30 minutes. We tried milk and oatmeal, which felt a bit ridiculous but kind of worked. The thing that seemed to help the most, though, was the hot tub followed by vinegar.



At any rate, the hazards of Paradise were abated, and we set out for our afternoon retreat. Dan had a 2-hour Thai massage booked with his usual therapist and I had a 90-minute lomi lomi massage with a therapist I had not yet worked with before. He was 30 minutes late, very apologetic, and was able to give me a thorough 60-minute massage and a refund for the extra 30 minutes. Kalani is a retreat center set on acres of lush grounds, and centers on all things holistic: massage, watsu, yoga, energy flow, and togetherness. Several weeks out of the year groups come in and stay for a week - whether they be yoga retreats, female or male bonding, or even a week of hula.



They also have a very nice pool, which I enjoyed while Dan was finshing up. To my surprise, his therapist offered to work with me to make up for my lost time. So indeed I ended up with the 30 minutes after all - and it was perfect because I got to experience two very different types of massage in one day. Thai massage is all about stretching and pressure points. You lay right on the ground with a pillow, and there are much less lotions involved. I liked. Very much. It helped my neck and shoulders quite a bit in just thirty minutes.



With our bodies humming, and the rain returning, we headed into Pahoa for some groceries. Dan made sushi for us, and we enjoyed watching the rain fall through the windows. The weather has been very erratic here, but fortunately the mornings and afternoons have been sunny and pleasant. And when it rains, it usually doesn't last longer than 15 minutes or so.

The past two trips we've made were both 10 nights so this is the point at which we'd be packing up and dreaming about the next one. This time, though, we are only halfway through! While the 3-week vacation involves much planning, careful choices and steady saving, it is hightly recommended. We may not get to be away for this long ever year, but we certainly are enjoying it. The pace of this adventure is wonderful!

Hawai`i 2009: Day 9

After a bit too much sun yesterday, we both were a little too pink for much exposure today (and wanted to play it safe for our massages tomorrow).

We did begin the day with some snorkeling at the Kapoho Tide Pools down the street. We visited the tide pools back in October 2007 when we stayed near Kehena Beach. Now we can walk, which is much better for snorkeling as we don't have to worry about what to do with our wallets/keys/etc.



The tide pools are protected and mostly very clear, full of coral and fish, making them a snorkeler's paradise. We kept our shirts on to avoid further sun burns, and scooted around. DanG is an excellent snorkeler, very comfortable navigating amongst the rocks, coral, shallow and deep ends of the waters. I, on the other hand, struggle a bit and have to work up my courage to fully explore. I get a strange vertigo sensation when I'm floating above coral that feels so close to my legs, and then my breathing becomes shallow. I do love the experience once I can relax into it, and when I can't I enjoy exploring from the sidelines.

With a little adventure under our belts, it was time to turn our attention toward food. We had heard wonderful things about the Sunday Pahoa Farmer's Market. In fact, it's more of a street fair. In addition to the usual fruits and vegetables you would find at any farmer's market, there are vendors selling crafts, live music, t-shirts, used books, DVDs, plants -- and a spectacular food court. We went with the crepes, which DanG will rave about (yum!).



Beyond a terrific spot to buy and eat local food, the Pahoa Farmer's Market felt like a gathering place for all Puna residents (who seem to come from all walks of life).



After hitting Malama Market again for some more groceries (yep, still insanely crowded on a Sunday afternoon), it was time for some reading and rest back at the house. The clear skies and beaming sun teased us, but we held out to enjoy the next couple weeks more. Dan baked some poha berry muffins, we watched the Travel channel, read about the Big Island and ate some good food. And lots of Aloe.

We also enjoyed watching the birds, like this mother and baby.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 8

Today we enjoyed many of those vacation moments you dream about when it's 50 degrees, pouring down rain and you are buried in work at your office work station.

I woke at 7:30, made a fresh pot of 100% Kona coffee (simply the best tasting coffee in the world) and enjoyed several cups out on a lounge chair -- soaking up the morning sun and watching lizards climb trees.



Before breakfast, I indulged in some hot tubbing. Later, we read our books outside, stopping once for the rain and then returning when the sun returned. We enjoyed the lagoon, more hot tubbing, a late lunch and a nap.




I took my first run in the neighborhood, and the terrain is nice and flat. And the people are friendly. Being in PNW mode, I often look down or away when approaching others. Bur here people make eye contact, smile and say aloha.



Lagoon Shangrila (the name of the house) is working out very well for us. I set up my clothes and yoga mat in one of the spare bedrooms. The internet connection is fast, and last night we realized we're only about 10 minutes away from Pahoa town. We drove in for dinner at one of our favorite Mexican restaurants - Luquin's. We then walked around town to better acquaint ourselves, stopping at Cash & Carry and then Island Naturals for a few essentials.



In the past, I'd been a bit spooked by Pahoa as there seemed to be a dark element to it. In fact, many people consider it to be the perfect hiding place for FBI fugitives. Maybe it's changed, or maybe I've changed. Last night I just saw a bustling quaint town on a Saturday night with just enough options for food, drink, shops and culture.

And even a cat on a hot (wood?) roof!

Hawai`i 2009: Day 7

This morning we bid adieu to the Falls. We took our last rain forest showers, took our last gazes into the rivers and took pictures of the beautiful house and grounds. Indeed, a special place and we treasured our three glorious nights there.

I will miss this view when taking my morning shower.



As check-out was 11am and check-in at our next destination not until 3pm, we had time for a few more Hilo hot spots before the drive to Puna. First we drove toward the University of Hawai`i-Hilo campus, the only major University on the Big Island. It seemed, though, that a parking permit was required so we just cruised through in our rental car before circling back to the `Imiloa Astronomy Center.



`Imiloa sits just above the UHH campus, a lovely and peaceful setting for this state-of-the-art facility. Part Hawaiian cultural museum, part Astronomy learning center, `Imiloa strives to bring science and technology to the forefront of the Hawaiian experience while spreading awareness and celebration of the Hawaiian way of life.

We watched a cool movie about Mauna Kea in the planetarium.





Mauna Kea, the largest mountain in the world when measured from the bottom of the sea, has inspired this dual-learning approach as it has become the leading location for viewing and understanding the cosmos. Housing the most powerful telescopes in the world, Mauna Kea allows scientists the opportunity to better understand the Universe, its creation and what is happening next in our ever-changing solar system. The telescopes have been met with much controversy, as they sit on precious Hawaiian soil. Thus, the delicate balance of scientific discovery and cultural reverence serves to make both sides content.





For lunch, we headed to Hilo's beloved Ken's House of Pancakes -- for an old fashioned plate lunch.



From there we headed to Big Island Candies. We used them last year for our wedding favors (their famous shortbread cookies dipped in homemade chocolate and beautifully packaged in tiny boxes for our guests). We didn't have much time then to explore, though, so this time we took our time and picked up some souvenirs (and snacks) and watched the workers on the assembly line. It is a dangerous place if you have a sweet tooth, but they are now offering some sugar free options and they also sell a few non-chocolate items such as wasabi and vanilla extract.



From there we headed toward old Pahoa town and picked up some groceries at the Malama Market. It was 3pm on a Friday, and the grocery store was buzzing. I'm not sure if it can be attributed to low employment or a non-conventional work week, but it seemed the weekend had already begun in Pahoa!

As we neared our vacation rental, I began to get a bit nervous as I always do when we first approach these places we find on the inernet. So far, using VRBO we've been able to find some amazing homes in Moloka`i and Pahoa (2007).

And we have another hit, which is really great since we'll be hear for the next two weeks. The house features a lagoon in the front yard with koi, tilapia and other fish - and we are allowed to swim in it! The yard also boasts a huge grill, hot tub, a dining area and enough tiki torches to have our own lu`au.





Today marked the end of our first week here in Hawai`i and also was the last day of our more structured itinerary. We tend to be laid back travelers, not planning much, and just doing what we feel like on the fly. However, because we were taking such a long trip we decided to make the first week a bit more planned so that we wouldn't put off doing things until the final week. It worked out well for us, and helped us slowly melt into vacation mode without the immediate whiplash feeling of "Now what do I do with my time?" We're also about 30 minutes away from Hilo now so seeing those sites will not be as convenient. There is still plenty left on our mental to-do list, but we now take things one day at a time, or even one second at a time.

In Celebration of The Falls at Reeds Island

Looking out into the jungle that surrounds The Falls, I feel engulfed in a sea of green.

As my eyes focus and scan the coconut palms and ferns and monstera, I notice just how many shades of green exist here - from deep, bluish tones to almost yellow.

And I begin to see the yellows and browns - places where green once was, now aged, some fallen to the ground or dangling from a branch, some falling violently to the earth.

I notice the green is punctuated with the reds of bromeliads and lehua blossoms, yellow, white and purple flowers, and the orange of lilikoi fruit ripening.

I see yellow birds playing tag with red cardinals, dashing through the air in search of food, and I see the proud rooster strutting through the yard, all bright feathers, loud crow, and cocky attitude.

My focus shifts to the darkness behind the colors, the volcanic rock supporting everything, providing a shadowy backdrop for the bright, living colors.

And on the rocks I notice more dashes of color - a scurrying gecko, a bright green anole basking in the sun, slowly changing to grey to disappear, a dragonfly resting for a moment before taking to flight again, a striped skink rustling under a leaf.

I see the grey lichen growing in the crevices of the rocks, giving tiny plants a foothold, so they too will someday grow to enormous sizes, replacing the fallen leaves, and making this place more green.

Watching all this around me, I'm reminded why we chose this place for our wedding, and why there was no question that we would return a year later to spend our first anniversary here. This place is the definition of the Hawaiian word uluwehiwehi - lush, beautiful, alive, and green.

We are so grateful to David Morton and Thomas Cordell for imagining this magical place and making it a reality, and to Jack & Jane, for again sharing their unrivaled hospitality, aloha, and home with us.