NW Hawai`i Times Lives On!

Sadly, this past year the slumping economy got the best of our beloved Northwest Hawai`i Times. It is no more, but we just learned that one of its most celebrated columnists has resurrected his two monthly columns on-line!

You can now catch Uncle Danny at his new blog called "Holoholo Northwest." Here he will be posting both his Holoholo column (what's new about town, Hawai`i-style) and Kama`aina Profile (featuring a former island local now living in the PNW area).

Mahalo to Uncle Danny for keeping the aloha alive!

Candles with Aloha

Our friend Keoni just launched a Hawaiian-scented candle business! Check him out!

http://www.maikalanicandles.com

Keeping Aloha Alive on the Mainland

Well, we've been back on the mainland now for 12 days. In addition to catching up on our jobs, house work, family and friends, we've been trying to keep that palpable spirit of aloha pumping through our veins.

As Dan wrote about on this food blog, we spent our first day back visiting the Hawai`i General Store and Luau Polynesian Lounge, two Seattle venues that pass the aloha test.

While I am on a slew of mailing lists for local Hawaiian events, often life gets in the way -- or rather, I let it. Last night was the first step forward in not letting that happen as we are missing out on some local treasures. Every week there are concerts, films, luaus and craft fairs that bring people together to celebrate the islands.

So, on a humble Wednesday evening (a very sunny one at that), we set out after work to Central Cinema. Central Cinema is a movie theater that also serves food. And not just snacks. Pizzas, salads, calzones. And beer and wine. The entire front section of the theater is situated with "tablettes" -- two person sitting areas with a small table area that resembles a counter or bar.



The reason we were there? I received an email while we were on the Big Island about a night of short films featuring Hawaiian filmmakers and hula. I was determined to make it so I did not erase the email.

The night centered around young filmmaker Christen Marquez, and her work-in-progress documentary "Huku Inoa: To Weave a Name." Christen was born on Oahu, but left for the mainland at a young age along with her father and brothers. Her mother, diagnosed schizophrenic, stayed behind. Christen was given her inoa (name) by her mother, a mele (poem) that Christen could never discern. Finally, she made the decision to journey back to Oahu and find out the truth. Obstacles ensue and cultural differences float to the surface.

The night began with three hula performances by Christen herself (who proclaimed she was a filmmaker who does hula and not a hula dancer who makes films). I thought she was lovely. She began with a hapa haole hula (mostly English with some Hawaiian words sprinkled in), moved to a protest hula (protesting the overthrow of the Monarachy in 1893) and closing with a somber but beautiful hula about forbidden love.



The night then segued into a showcase of three Hawai`i-based filmmakers: one experimental, one animation and one narrative. We thought the animation ("Ipo Lei Manu") was particularly impressive. It followed the words to Queen Kapiolani's last poem to her husband, King Kalaukaua, while he was abroad. Kalakaua died on that trip and never got to read his wife's beautiful words.



Christen showed both her very first short (made when she was 17!) and then came the headliner. The film, which will be 60 minutes when completed, shows much potential. PBS Hawai`i has been giving her much support, but she still has a long way to go to fund the remainder of the production.

Christen's website has more information, including a trailer for her film and a place for people to donate.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 22

This morning we awoke early - before 6am - and finished the last bits of packing and cleaning. It was hard to say goodbye to what had become our home for the last two weeks, but we left in good spirits.

We made one final stop (for this trip, anyway) to Sirius Coffee on our way to the airport so I could get my iced coffee fix. I wish more places in Seattle sold iced coffee. Other than Starbucks, it seems that most places only offer an iced americano (also good, but not the same thing).

After a quick check-in at the Hilo airport, I wandered around a bit. They are doing a lot of construction, and hopefully will be adding a few more restaurants/shops. I decided to wait until Honolulu to spend any money, and then retired to the sitting area and read my book, side by side with Dan.



The flight to Honolulu was very quick, less than 40 minutes and then we had three hours to spend in Honolulu. It was a perfectly clear day, and we welcomed the chance to linger a bit. We perused some shops, bought some magazines (and mac nut popcorn for the plane) before heading to Kona Brewing Company for some drinks and nachos. It's a comfortable space, even though it is now longer a Stinger Ray's. Service was great.



Our long flight home was pleasantly uneventful. I finished the novel I bought in Hilo on Thursday, called Simple Life. It is written by Big Island resident Mia King, and tells the story of a Manhattan family who relocates to Waimea. The wife, and protagonist, begins to unravel as her marriage (and world) falls out from under her when she realizes Paradise isn't all massages and pool-side cocktails. One chapter was missing, but I was able to fill in the blanks pretty well. It's a fast read, and offers some keen insight into facing one's own need to change in light of how others are impacted. The protagonist was not particularly likeable, but I think that was partly the point. The story showed how displacement can be a catalyst for positive change, and emotional repair.



Around 10pm, after seeing fireworks from the plane, we landed at Sea-Tac. It felt comforting to be back on our home turf, and the ease of catching a cab and the 70 degree heat helped with the transition to Mainland life.

Having adjusted to Island time, we were up past midnight catching up on TV and giving longer overdue affection to our cat (who seemed to miss us dearly).

This may have been our best trip to Hawai`i yet. But then, they just keep getting better. Soon it will be time to start planning the next one. We have now visited 4 of the main islands - Oahu, Kaua`i, Moloka`i and of course the Big Island. While Kaho`o lawe and Ni`ihau require special permission, Maui and Lana`i are open to us any time. On the flight home, we made a remaining to-do list for the Big Island, and I doubt it will be long before we return there. The 3 nights somewhere else before returning "home" worked out very well, and may work as a model for future trips. We shall see. For now, we'll unpack and revel in the joy of this glorious time we've had together in our favorite place--and hopefully keep the aloha alive to share with others back home.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 21

Today was our last full day on the Big Island. Our flight out of Hilo tomorrow is fairly early (9:40am) and then we spend a great deal of the day at the Honolulu airport (which we plan to utilize as continued vacation time!).

We decided to get much of the packing and cleaning out of the way early this morning so it wasn't hanging over us throughout the day. By the time we finished, the sun came out and we enjoyed one last day in Lagoon Shangrila - the sun, the birds, the lizards, the lagoon, the hot tub. Dan made us fresh leis!



With a three week vacation in Paradise, one may expect an epiphany or some sort of revelation. I am not sure either of us has had anything so dramatic, but this morning on my jog I came to realize just how relaxed, calm, energized and confident I feel. I will bring this feeling back to the mainland, along with the Kona coffee and macademia nuts.



This being our third visit together to the Big Island, we've been able to dig a little deeper. See things a bit more from the local side, and explore more of the vast terrain. But more on impressions when we return.

We will surely miss this place.



In late afternoon, we decided to take one final stroll down to the tide pools for one last snorkel (for this trip). While a bit spooked from Wednesday's drowning, we had a few days to let it sink (bad choice of words) in. The tide pools are a safe place, and one that gives us great pleasure. While the tragedy might make us a bit more aware, we won't let it keep us out of the water. Withdrawing out of fear is just not the way to lead a full life. However, this time we used floaty devices and I loved it. I laid across a little board and enjoyed the fish and coral while feeling the sun on my back!

In keeping with the theme of indelibly etched positive memories, we headed back to Pahoa for our final supper on the Big Island. This time we tried Kaleo's, an Italian-fusion restaurant right at the beginning of the strip. We were first met by a greeter in the parking lot who told us where to park. At that point I knew this would not be a typical Pahoa joint. In fact, it was not at all. We walked into candles, red walls and a romantic atmosphere. Slowly, the parking lot filled and we can see why: this place is golden! Dan will write more about it.



Back at the house, we did some final packing and then lit all the tiki torches for one last round in the hot tub.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 20

This morning we ventured over to the Mauna Loa Macademia Nut factory, near the Panaewa Zoo. As far as we know, it is the largest mac nut manufacturer. We began by browsing the visitor center, which is mostly a gift shop (with free samples). Then we took the self-guided tour of the factory, where we peered through glass to watch the workers and machinery. There were videos to go along with each stations (ie, salting, sorting, glazing, packaging, etc).



It was neat to see the nuts move along the assembly and shoot down slides. I love those shows on the Travel Channel that go inside candy factories to learn how it's all made, and this felt sort of like that experience (without voice over).



On the 3 mile drive toward the factory, we passed many mac nut tree. Mac nuts can only be harvested once they have fallen to the ground. They then have to have both their husks and shells removed before moving along in the process for consumption.



Taste buds aroused, we headed into Hilo for one final stop at Basically Books. We both had a heck of a time deciding on books for the flight home. I ended up going with a collection of stories by Jack London describing his time in Hawai`i and a novel by a local Big Island author. Dan found a book about a couple who move to the Big Island from the mainland and try to live off the grid (and learn it's not so easy).

After going into Pahoa for daily errands for so many days, it felt comforting to be back in Hilo (the "big city"). We had lunch at Cronie's again, and I ended up eating another Caesar salad (this time, with chicken). The food and drinks were great, but more than anything we were craving that Hilo hospitality. Perhaps it just comes with living in a port town and wanting to please the customer for the sake of business. People in Hilo seem to be the friendliest, and happiest people on the island.



After lunch we perused a massive furniture store before zipping over to the Lyman Museum to use our rain check. We viewed the upstairs with a more careful eye, and even wandered through the downstairs exhibits again. The staff there was friendly as always, though we were unable to figure out if Dan's cousin still works there as no one seemed to know.



I had so much energy today that I went running twice. We enjoyed our L&L leftovers and the remainders of our desserts from Island Naturals.

Tomorrow will be our last full day on the Big Island. We haven't decided how to spend it just yet, but a portion of it will be designated for packing and cleaning up the house.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 19

Today began on a sober note, as Dan witnessed a man drown in the Kapoho Tide Pools. The man was later identified as Hamilton Manley. A recent news story can be found here. Obviously, the experience left Dan shook up. After hearing the helicopters and aid units come rushing by the house, it was then time for the monthly Tsunami Practice Warning. It takes place at 11:45 am on the first working day of each month. We are situated in an evacuation area, and had already checked to see where we would need to run to in the event of the real thing. The warning is simply a practice, not a drill. It's a time to give pause, to think about what one would do if/when the real thing happens.

Tragedy, both real and potential, did not get the best of us. We decided to take a run/walk down to Ahalanui and enjoy the warm and safe swimming pond there. The sun was intense at the beginning of our run, but by the time we reached the park it began to pour. The pond was packed, and it was an extremely surreal sight to see so many people inside the pond with a torrential downpour. But the water sure felt great!



After walking back to the house, we felt we deserved an adult beverage. We headed to Pahoa, to what has been one of our favorite little Mexican joints on the island, Luquin's. Whenever we stop in, lunch or dinner, the waitresses are always shoving their famous margaritas down our throats. So we figured stopping in just for a drink or two would be fine. Apparently, not on Wednesdays. Or this Wednesday. I'm fine with people deciding to go dry, but only if it makes sense and it's clear to the customer. It's annoying to serve one day and not the other for seemingly arbitrary reasons. The waitress had an increduclous response when we asked for a drink menu, too, as if we should have known better. Strange, since every other spot in town was serving.



While we were in town, and perfectly sober, we decided to check out the new Pahoa Village Museum. Still in its nascent stage, it's a bit unfocused but shows potential. We were expecting to learn more about the history of Pahoa, but much of the museum is dedicated to Mauna Kea with a slight political bent. The rest of the museum showcases some old Hawaiian photographs from the old Waikiki Golden Age, some maps, odds and ends and stencil drawings of birds.



The back of the museum is also used as an entertainment venue and the front end has a small smoothie bar.

After the museum, we headed to Island Naturals for some of their tempting desserts (for later) and some locally brewed beer. We then rested up for our night lava hike.

Dan had called the lava hotlines this morning, and learned that we weren't allowed to get very close to the streaming flow into the water. But we still enjoyed the experience. We drove down the Red Road until it stops at Kalapana (which was destroyed by the Volcano in 1990). There is a convenience store, snack shack, kava bar and a few lava exhibits at the juncture.





The hike is all on fairly new lava rock, and continues to a nice beach. Off to our right we could see the vast plumes of steam. However, we did not see red. Some people say that if you stay past dusk you can see some "fireworks" within the plumes, but we weren't sure about that. It was a pleasant walk, and we did get some good photos.





We then hit Pahoa for our first L&L experience. Boy, talk about a dangerous fast-food joint. I had to stop myself from gorging on my entire container of curry chicken, fried rice, chow mein and mochiko chicken. I had no idea they had a Chinese buffet in addition to all the Hawaiian favorites.