Dan & Dan's Hawaiian Adventures

Big Island Recommendations

2011-12-19T10:49:00.000-08:00

Given our love of the Big Island (and our many visits), friends and coworkers planning vacations to Hawai'i have begun to ask us what we suggest. We figured it's about time we compiled some of our favorite spots, activities and resources in one place.

The first thing we recommend is to get a copy of "The Blue Book" - Hawaii The Big Island Revealed: The Ultimate Guidebook. This is an incredibly comprehensive guidebook to the entire island of Hawaii, and it's indispensable as a resource while you're there (and before you go).

Places to Stay

The Falls at Reeds Island - this is the place we got married, and though pricier than other options, it's well worth it for the privacy, gorgeous setting, and comfortable, fully appointed home. It's also a short walk into Downtown Hilo - though the walk back can be a little spooky at night.
Mika Taki - another amazing property on Reeds Island, with several bedrooms and a Japanese soaking tub.
Kapoho Shangri-la - like a resort all to yourself, this rental house is truly a shangri-la. It's located in the Kapoho subdivision - one of the greatest and safest snorkeling spots on the island - and even has a lava rock pool in the yard that you can snorkel in - though you'll share the pool with koi and tilapia. It also has a hot tub, three bedrooms and a fully stocked kitchen.
Hale Kipuka - we're not sure if they're still renting this home out (they were working to sell another house and planned to move into this one back in 2007), but if it's available, it's a great deal in a beautiful spot. Just a few minutes walk to Kehena Beach on the Puna coast, it's part of a small community in the jungle, and the grounds have fruit trees where you can pick fresh limes for your Mai Tais!
Kehena Beach Oceanfront Retreat - This beautiful home just a short walk from Kehena Beach was where we spent 2 of 3 weeks during one trip to the island. It has a pool, hot tub, sand floor meditation room, and is filled with artwork with a very Bali feel. Although there's just one bedroom in the main house, the place is huge - not including the two guest rooms in the adjacent building.
Royal Kona - this is the hotel where we've stayed during every visit to the Kona side of the island. It's not a high end spot, but the staff have always been great, the hotel includes a full bar and a great restaurant right on the water, and it's right on the end of the main drag of Kona - making it easy to walk to shops, restaurants, etc.
Hilton Waikaloa Village - though we've never stayed there ourselves, some of our family stayed here after our wedding, and had a blast. It's an all inclusive resort that's a short drive to Kona, but our family found they never really felt like leaving - since the grounds have everything from restaurants & bars to a ocean-fed lagoon for swimming with turtles, and even dolphins! The place is so enormous, there's a train to take you from one end to the other. It's not cheap, and not what we'd call an 'authentic' Hawaiian feel, but if you've got kids or are looking for a pampered experience in a beautiful setting, it's worth considering.
Hilo Hawaiian Hotel - though we haven't stayed at any others, we're told this is the nicest hotel in Hilo, located right along Banyan Drive.
VRBO - nearly all the vacation homes we've stayed in on the islands have been places we've found while searching Vacation Rentals By Owner. We've never had a bad experience or been disappointed.

Food & Drink

Before we reveal our favorite spots to eat around the island, there's one island treat you gotta try: Shave Ice (aka Ice Shave). If you've never had one before (and even if you have), you should DEFINITELY get a Shave Ice while in Hawai'i. It's like a snow cone, only way better in terms of texture and flavors. Instead of gritty bits of ice with cherry/grape/lime syrup that just runs to the bottom of the cone, the ice is literally shaved paper thin, which allows it to hang onto the delicious syrups. If you wanna go all out, get ice cream and azuki beans in the bottom. There's a little cart on Ali'i Drive, right by the Royal Kona in Kona, and Wilson's By the Bay and Hilo Bay Sugar Shack are good bets in Hilo. Dan G's favorite is liliko'i (passion fruit).

Hilo

Ken's House of Pancakes - a great 24-hour diner in Hilo, with the most delicious macadamia nut pancakes you'll ever taste. Be sure to get the trio of syrups to try on top: Coconut, Guava and Passion fruit!
Cafe Pesto - a relaxed yet upscale Italian restaurant that uses fresh local ingredients to create unique island-inspired dishes. Casual enough for a quick lunch in shorts & flip-flops, but fancy enough that we held the welcome dinner for our wedding here - and they treated us wondefully. The service has always been great and the food is excellent.
Reuben's Mexican Food - looks like a hole in the wall from the street, but the place is really big and the food is too. Friendly service and tasty margaritas, right in Downtown Hilo. The Mexican flag on your table is how you let your server know you need something - like a liliko'i margarita in a pint glass.
Cronies Bar & Grill - a Midwestern sports bar in Downtown Hilo, where you can watch a game, drink a beer, and enjoy a burger (or the delicious Kalua Pig Caesar Salad).
Cafe 100 - known as the (possible) originator of Loco Moco (rice topped with egg, ground beef and brown gravy), this Hilo drive in is well worth a stop in to select one of the dozens of varieties of Loco Moco on the menu.
Two Ladies Kitchen - tucked a few streets off the main drag of Hilo, Two Ladies makes hands-down the best fresh strawberry mochi on the planet... or at least in Hilo.
Hilo Bay Cafe - We've now been to this high end eatery twice, and the service and quality of food is impeccable. Along with Kaleo's in Pahoa and Cafe Pesto downtown, this would be a great pick if you're celebrating a birthday, anniversary, or just want an excuse to dress up a bit
Hilo Burger Joint - Excellent burgers in a tavern style atmosphere. A bit dark, but the food and beer are well worth it.
Big Island Pizza - Awesome pizza spot off the main drag (right near Hilo Burger Joint). The Coconut Prawn pizza (with Thai flavors like peanuts and sweet chili sauce) is not to be missed.

Pahoa

Kaleo's - in the heart of rugged little Pahoa sits this fancy yet comfortable restaurant featuring a wide range of dishes, from steak and pastas to curries and katsu.
Luquin's - pitchers of margaritas and lots of vegetarian options at this Mexican eatery. Full bar available, unless it's not.
Ning's Thai Cuisine
- awesome Thai food. Be sure to get the Thai Iced Tea with Coconut Cream.
Sirius Coffee Connection - Pahoa's local coffee shop, where you can get your morning caffeine fix along with plenty of aloha.

Kona

Don The Beachcomber's - located at the Royal Kona, Don's is a destination in and of itself, whether you want to enjoy a flight of Mai Tais at the oceanside bar, a casual breakfast, or want to treat yourself to an elegant dinner with a view of humpback whales. Also the host of a Mai Tai contest every August.
Lulu's - Burgers, sandwiches, beers and cocktails in a tiki-bar type atmosphere, on the second floor with a great view of the bay.
Huggo's On The Rocks - kick off your slippahs and feel the sand between your toes while you sip a Lilikoi Chi Chi and watch turtles graze on limu just a few feet away.
U-Top-It - the home of taro pancrepes, a hybrid of the pancake and crepe made with taro flour and topped with your choice of tons of savory and sweet ingredients. Dan G always seems to get the Hula Girl.
Wasabi's - a small but wonderful sushi spot on Ali`i Drive, featuring some interesting rolls.
Kona Brewing Company - a long walk or a short drive from the main drag, but worth the effort for great beer and even greater pizza.

Other

Luke's Place - Hawi's own tiki bar and restaurant, serving local grass-fed beef burgers that are as incredible as the staff are friendly. Walk through the dining room to the tiki bar to the left, and grab a spot at the bar.
Tex Drive In - if you're driving North out of Hilo, or just want to try a decadent, historical treat, stop in Honokaa at Tex Drive In for a malasada - a Portuguese doughnut brought to the islands by plantation workers from the Azores back in the 1800's.

Natural Wonders

Rainbow Falls
Boiling Pots
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Akaka Falls
Waipi`o Valley Lookout
Pololu Valley Lookout
Lava Flow - Short (or long) hike over lava (or just down a road) to view lava (or not) at dusk near Kalapana. If you want to get close enough to feel the heat, you'll have to pay for a private tour - as the lava (right now) is flowing on private property. But all this changes w/ Madame Pele's moods - so check the lava status report.

Beaches, Swim & Snorkel Spots

Punalu`u Black Sand Beach - a large black sand beach on the South side of the island, with plenty of parking and a near guarantee of seeing green sea turtles.
Kehena Beach - known for its nudists as much as its black sand, this secluded beach on the Red Road is a fun spot to catch some rays.
Kahalu'u Beach - it's well worth fighting the crowds at this prime snorkeling spot in Kona, where we've seen turles, rays and tons of fish. Possibly the most abundant spot for fish and the easiest snorkling in terms of accessibility, as the beach slopes gently into the water. The area is guarded from the open ocean by a rock wall, life guards are often on duty, and the water is waist deep in most areas, making it a safe spot for less experienced swimmers.
Captain Cook Monument - rent a kayak and paddle across the bay to Captain Cook Monument, where you can park your boat and snorkel in the clear waters filled with fish and the occasional dolphin pod. Be sure to secure your valuables and food, as the mongoose population is out of control, and they'll dig through your things to find something good to eat.
Kapoho Tidepools - some of the safest and best snorkeling on the East side of the island, these tidepools trap fish that swim in during high tide, creating fully enclosed, calm pools teeming with life at low tide. Keep an eye on the tide, however, and don't stray too far out, as the currents can become strong.
Ahalanui Hot Pond - a natural hot pond near Kapoho that's been cemented in a bit to create a giant hot tub where you can soak away that last bit of work stress you haven't been able to shake yet.
Richardson Beach - A great Hilo-side snorkel spot with lifeguard on duty. Beach is shady but water stays relatively shallow (good snorkeling depth) for quite a ways out. We ran into our waiter (Wesley) from Reuben's and Amy from One Gallery at this favorite of locals.

Organized Adventures

Big Island Candies - The 'tour' consists of looking through a big window at workers making the signature candies and cookies, but they are RIGHT THERE on the other side of the glass. Free samples and lots of interesting sweets. Chocolate covered Ika is not for the squeamish.
Body Glove Snorkel Tour - Super fun cruise out of Kona, with music, food, cocktails, a slide, and lots of time at a prime snorkel spot. May also include upgrade options to Snuba or Scuba. Dan G did the snuba with guide Caleb Wolfson, and it was a great experience. You're connected to the surface, but can dive down 20 feet or so to see things on the bottom or tucked in caves. Caleb was a great tour guide to the ocean, and made Dan realize how much you can find by turning over rocks while snorkeling.
Kona Honu Divers Manta Ray Dive - One of many groups doing the Manta Ray dive, which should not be missed (unless you're deathly afraid of the water, the dark, or both). The experience of floating above a bright light while huge manta rays swim around you is unbelievable. And it's pretty crowded. If you scuba, it's a little less so down on the bottom than on the surface.
Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden - Beautiful tropical gardens to walk through. Don't forget your bug repellant!
Nani Mau Gardens - A great spot to go if you want to see a variety of tropical plants and trees, in particular fruit trees. Tram tours and self-guided walking tours available. Caters heavily to Japanese tour groups.
Pana`ewa Rainforest Zoo - A donations only zoo where you can visit Namaste the white tiger!
Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm - A bit pricey (over $75 per person, if memory serves), but you get to touch a seahorse. Where else can you do that?
Wailoa Park
Maunoloa Macademia Nut Factory - Self guided tour, parts of which may be off limits if wild pig activity is high.

Relax & Renewal

Massages at Kalani Oceanside Retreat

History & Science

Living Aloha

Resources

Things We Want to Do

Zip Line Tours
Tour Coffee Plantations
Lava Tree State Park
World Botanical Gardens & Waterfalls
Puako Petroglyph Archeological Preserve
Green Sand Beach
Kona Historical Society Boat Tour - Read about this in Hana Hou (the Hawaiian Airlines in-flight magazine), and at the time Caleb Wolfson was the guide, so it's gotta be good.
Portuguese Stone Oven Baking - Another offering from the Kona Historical Society
Visit during the Merrie Monarch Hula Festival

Ke Ala 'Ula - Our Tiki Bar

2010-03-22T04:00:00.000-07:00

After about a decade of apartment life on Seattle's Capitol Hill, Dan & I moved South to Beacon Hill a couple years back. We rented a great little house just off McClellan. The market was at a peak, and we didn't want to commit to a specific neighborhood until we knew if we liked living in a house, in South Seattle, maintaining a yard, and could handle a little longer commute. The result was that we loved having a house and yard, and didn't mind being a little further out from the core of the city. While living in that house, we transformed an odd little room into a makeshift tiki bar, which we enjoyed as a place to entertain and to escape reality once in awhile.

After two years though, we were ready to buy something of our own. The market bottomed out, the Obama administration was offering tax credits for first time home buyers, and we were ready to have a home of our own. We hooked up with realtor extraordinaire, Sarah Rudinoff, and gave her our list of needs and wants for our new home: including that our new home must have a space we can completely convert into a tiki bar.

After a fairly short search, we found our dream home in the Seward Park Neighborhood, and it included a 18' x 8' pass-through room connecting the former back door with the new laundry/garage addition and the backyard. When we viewed the house, the former owner even had it staged as a bar of sorts - with a leather couch, small wooden bar and wall-mounted TV.

We knew this was the perfect space for our tiki bar.

After moving in and settling a bit, we got to work, first painting the ceiling Surfer Waves blue.

I drew up some general plans, did a lot of measuring, and placed an initial order with Forever Bamboo for materials, including split bamboo poles, bamboo paneling, and lauhala matting. After a little trial and error, Dan & I figured out methods for applying the matting to the top of the walls, paneling to the lower half, and bamboo as a chair rail and trim.

The next big step was to begin building the bar itself, and we opted to start with Billy bookshelves from Ikea as the starting point - with the goal of covering and adapting them to the point that they'd be unrecognizable.

Unfortunately, during a cold snap during the winter, some pipes froze in the walls of our new bar, so I had to pull down large sections of wallcovering to find the problem spot, fix it, and then insulate the pipes in hopes of avoiding this problem in the future. Thankfully, none of the pipes cracked, so we avoided major damage.

Crisis averted, we kept moving forward with the bar build - adding 1/4" plywood as a covering on the front and sides, topping the bar with 1/2" plywood.

I covered the front of the bar with bamboo paneling to match the walls, then edged the top with split bamboo. We covered the top with lauhala matting, sealed it with Mod Podge, then attached vintage-style Hawaiian postcards. All around the edge, I glued down electroluminescent (EL) wire from Cool Neon, then poured multiple coats of bar top epoxy to create a thick, smooth, waterproof, clear seal.

Connected to a driver, the EL wire lights up, giving the entire bar top a red glow.

Once the walls and bar were complete, all that was left was to stock the bar and decorate - which we did with the wealth of artwork and nick-nacks we've collected through the years, as well as with some gifts and some items bought on ebay.

Put all together, the effect is exactly what we hoped for: a room that, when you walk into it, transports you from often rainy and cold Seattle to somewhere tropical where your only worry is whether to drink a Mai Tai or a Pina Colada.

We christened the bar "Ke Ala 'Ula" - which means The Red Road, both because the bar looks like a glowing red path, and because the Red Road is the name of the road along the southeast corner of the Big Island, one of our favorite places in the islands. It runs from Kalapana (where lava flows wiped out the fishing village and blocked the highway) past Kehena Beach (where I spent my first week on the island year ago) to Kapoho (with it's beautiful tidepools).

There are still some finishing touches left - some artwork to put up, cushions to make for the bar stools, and hopefully someday a real reef aquarium... but for now, we're loving our Hawaiian escape inside our home, and enjoying sharing it with friends and family.

After the build was complete, Sarah had a photographer (Elizabeth Petrak) come out and take pictures of the bar. They turned out beautifully:

Kona 2010 Day 8

2010-03-20T12:42:00.000-07:00

Saturday.

Our flight wasn't until 12:40 so we had a leisurely final morning. Breakfast at the hotel so Dan could get his mac nut pancake fix. We then soaked up Kona scenery for the last time (until our next trip).

Goodbye, Royal Kona.

View from our side balcony.

Our journey home was delightfully uneventful. Had an iced tea at the Kona airport, and sat outside in the sun until our flight boarded. Our layover was short in Honolulu so we zipped in and out of Kona Brewing Company without any time for food. We were home close to 11pm, which was 9pm, which is when we often go to bed during the week. But after sleepin on the plane and crossing time zones, we were not ready to sleep for several hours.

While it was a pleasure to explore Kona more, it felt strange not to be on the other side of the island. That's the thing about the Big Island. It's big. It's difficult to see it all in one trip - well, really see it all. Our wish list gets widdled down, and then grows again as we spot something new on the street or in the local paper. It's epic. We've been there 4 times together now, and it feels as though we've only scratched the surface on many levels. At the same time, we are often mistook for being kama`aina when we're out and about.

Never an easy place to leave, we're brought back with renewal, aloha and the ambition to return!

Kona 2010 Day 7

2010-03-20T12:26:00.001-07:00

Friday. Our last full day in Kona. We started off with our last snorkel of the trip, back at Kahalu`u Beach. The water was nice and calm, as we got there early - or, in Hawaiian, malie.

Right when I got in the water, I looked down and there it was. Finally. After 6 trips and countless snorkel excursions, I finally swam with a honu (green sea turtle). Dan had his first experience earlier in the week, but it took me until Friday. It was a perfect ending to a wonderful week in the water. He was headed for the beach. Later, I caught up with him and took his photo.

Coming down from the excitment, we indulged in a big lunch at the hotel, where Dan discovered his new favorite drink.

The rest of the day was a mdely of running, napping and souvenir shopping. The hotel's gift shop has been transformed and they now carry higher quality items (and less clutter). I hate clutter.

The front desk informed me that the lu`au had changed a bit, but we opted not to take part this trip. We did get a glimpse as we were headed out for dinner that night.

After a week of eating out, one starts to crave ligther fare. So, we found ourselves back at Bongo Ben's that night for another round of salads. We followed that up with some unusually flavored shave ice. I had key lime, fuzzy navel and something called "suicide." I especially liked the key lime. Very tart. It's funny we never really took notice of this guy's cart as it's right next to Huggo's.

Earlier in the week, we went to this sacred land to buy avocado and mango bread. It is a well-groomed plot of land that is usually gated shut. Apparently, they allow churches to sell baked goods there.

We finished up the night at ABC Store, redeeming our gifts with all our receipts from the week. We ended up with a reusable shopping bag and 2 coffee mugs.

Kona 2010 Day 6

2010-03-20T11:42:00.000-07:00

Thursday.

This is where I got my iced coffee every morning.

We took it pretty easy today, after a marathon of snorkel/activity on Wednesday. We started the day at Lava Java, sharing of their famous "cinnamon pull-a-parts." I'm glad we shared because even half had us feeling a little too full/sugar-weird for several hours after we ate. Delicious in the moment, though. The one-night stand of breakfasts, I guess.

As we warded off diabetic comas, we sauntered up and down the main drag, shopping for birthday gifts and souvenirs for co-workers. This store turned out to have some finds.

We also took the self-guided tour of Hulihe`e Palace, once the vacation home for Hawaiian royalty. It has been restored as a museum, with each room appointed with artifacts from the ali`i. It was severely damaged in the earthquake of 2006, but thanks to generous donors the palace is now back in its rightful place as a symbol of Hawaiian History and elegance.

The palace was originally built by Gov. Kuakini, but later embellished by King Kalakaua as it wasn't "palatial" enough for his standards. Before Kalaukaua took ownership, Hulihe`e served as the chief residence of Princess Ruth for most of her life. However, she always preferred to sleep in a grass hut on the lawn, not being one for opulence. Admission is cheap and the staff are very knowledgable. While we out on the lanai (that Kalakaua had expanded), one woman told us the story of how the palace got its name. To find out, check out this awesome Big Island blog I just stumbled across.

Kuakini also built Mokuaikaua Church, across the street from the palace.

It was warm all week (drought), but Thursday was exceptionally clear and warm.

I made up starve ourselves all day so we could gorge that night for our special dinner at the hotel's restaurant. I recently started a new job, and a going-away gift from my previous department was a very generous use-it-for-anything VISA. We decided to use it for a special meal together. Surprisingly, we didn't even use it all up! The restaurant is right on the water, making it a romantic spot to dine.

We even got a bit of a show from some humpback whales.

You can read all about the dinner on Dan's food blog. I will just say it was well worth the discomfort of not eating anything but a cinnoman roll all day.

They were celebrating his birthday.

Kona 2010 Day 5

2010-03-20T09:09:00.000-07:00

Wednesday. We got up early, and headed down to the Kailua pier to board the Body Glove snorkel cruise. Some sort of organized water adventure was on our wish list for the trip, and after looking through the medley of brochures, we chose Body Glove (the water slide and bar were the tipping points).

The admission price got us a free continental breakfast (with coffee, thankfully!), all snorkel equipment, and lunch. We paid for drinks, but they kept lowering the price as the day went on because a new bartender was training.

Once we cruised out to our destination, there was a brief safety talk and people had the option to upgrade to scuba or power diving (kind of like snuba) for an extra fee. Dan chose the power dive, which we did later in the day.

I loved how easy it was to get in and out of the water - just plop right into water that is over your head! We snorkeled near a coral shelf, and saw many different kinds of fish. Dan got to see some cooler stuff when he did the power dive, like eel and a sea urchin that is like a suction cup.

Body Glove does an awesome job of creating a fun atmosphere, with music and a friendly staff. There were rules laid out, but nothing seemed overly rigid or scheduled. We would go in the water, come out, have something to eat, get back in, repeat. And, on the way back we saw dolphins. They swam right under the boat!

We got back to the boat around noon, stopping in at Huggo's for a drink and then later grubbing on some delicious pizza from Kona Brewing Company. Me stuffing my face, and look so unattractive.

It wasn't on purpose, but it worked out that our two water adventures would fall on the same day. That night we took another plunge - this time with Kona Honu Divers for the Manta Ray night snorkel and dive. We had to drive out of town to embark, and while we were waiting we saw a moray eel!

The first part of the experience was a nice sunset cruise out to our destination.

Once we reached our destination, near the shore by the airport, we put on our wet suits. It was my first time wearing one, and I was surprised by their comfort and effectiveness. I never got cold. We got to snorkel around a bit before the sun went down, but didn't see much. In fact, it was kind of spooky not really seeing much of anything below.

Once it was dark enough, a circle of LED lights was turned on. The lights attract plankton, which is what manta rays feast on. Amazing these gigantic animals can subsist on just plankton! We swam toward the circle of light, and the initial feeling of being in the ocean at night was a bit freaky. But once we hit the circle, it was spectacular. To be so close to these magnificent creatures is indescribable, really. We have had amazing experiences in our lives, and this is definitely in the top tier. Highly, highly recommended. The dive guide was super helpful, too, and he shoots video while he is diving.

Sorry, no pictures.

We were so jazzed up from the experience that we hung out a bit at the hotel bar after we got back that night. Just like two kids who had just been to Disneyland for the first time. But with alcohol.

Kona 2010 Day 4

2010-03-20T08:37:00.000-07:00

Tuesday began with another trip to Kahalu'u Beach, for some quality ocean time. The snorkeling was great. We then headed just south of Kona to Kona Stories Bookstore. I had read quite a bit about the place, as it's frequently mentioned in the local writing scene. We were first greeted by a beautiful and friendly kitty, who followed us around as we perused the shelves filled with books by local authors. I ended up buying a book about the historical players of the Big Island, and a memoir called West of Then that is written by a former local woman and details her tumultuous relationship with her mother (and in a way, the islands). I'm about 2/3 through, and so far I am finding it well written and interesting.

After our literary needs were met, we drove mauka to the sleepy little town of Holualoa. Holualoa is known for its many art galleries (all basically situated on the main drag of town, making it an easy way to stroll from one to another). Art has always been at its center, going way back to the plantation days.

Here is the old Kona hotel, or "the other pink palace."

Here is the first gallery we visited, the Treasure Mill. They featured a plethora of wood crafts.

After stopping in at the Ipu Hale Gallery to see the decorated gourds, we stopped for an iced tea and enjoyed the beautiful day.

We then rounded our our art walk, coming very close to buying a triplicate bamboo piece. However, we wanted to wait and check out Hula Lamps of Hawai`i before making our decision. We bought one of their hula lamps in June 2008, and were struck by the oil paintings in the back. There was one in particular we remembered, of a coconut tree. Simple, but yet so complex with the light and movement.

It was there! So we bought our first piece of original art from Hawai`i! It arrived last week, and we look forward to putting it up in our living room once we finish wallpapering.

For lunch, we headed back to the hotel and grubbed on some appetizers from the bar. As you can see, we were very relaxed.

That night we purchased our second piece of original art, a carving of the entire Hawaiian archipelago in koa wood. We had been looking for something like this for above our fire place, and just could not pass it up. So, we ended up with two pieces of art in one week. Not bad.

For dinner, we forged ahead and did the unthinkable: went against the advice of the Blue Book. We ate at Pancho Lefty's, which they concisely dismiss in the 4th edition. While it wasn't the most visionary Mexican food, the drinks were tasty and the food was fine.

As night fell, I had to keep an eye on the clock. Yes, even while on vacation, I must watch LOST live! It's filmed on the islands so it's sort of thematic. Before that, we explored the King Kamehameha lobby and grounds a bit.

Kona 2010 Day 3

2010-03-18T17:45:00.000-07:00

Monday started off with a morning run toward Magic Sands Beach. I love how at any time of day in Kona there are throngs of people walking, biking and swimming. It's such a healthy place (in large part, because of Iron Man) and it motivates us to stick with the exercise program even while on vacation!

Taking advantage of our convertible, we decided to take a late morning drive up the Kohala Coast to visit the Mauna Lani fish ponds. Set on the grounds of the Mauna Lani resort, the fish ponds were used by ancient Hawaiians long before Hawai`i became synonymous with honeymoon or sun block. They have been nicely preserved, with signage explaining each of the areas as well as descriptions of much of the plant life. It's a pleasant stroll, despite being in a wind pocket.

Along the path, we came across a lava tube.

Is that heaven up there?

No, but over here is where they used to kill people.

We stumbled across this beautiful beach toward the end of our walk. We had hoped to do some snorkeling, but it was just too windy.

Plenty hungry, we drove up north to Hawi, almost to the tip of the North Kohala coast. I had noticed a placed called Luke's Place during our last trip and noted that we needed to return (I see the sign "tiki bar" and must go for inspiration (side note: our new house has a full-fledged tiki bar and designated posts/pictures to come).

Anyway, it's awesome. And super friendly staff. We love it.

After we returned, I indulged in a massage at Lotus (the hotel's spa). From there, I spent some time at the pool until it was time for a nap. Then--guess what!!!--we went back to Huggo's! We were hoping to hop from there to Fujimama's - a very nice sushi/Japanese restaurant that was there two years ago. At the time, I had a queasy stomach and couldn't really enjoy it. Sadly, it had closed so we went with Wasabi's. We'd been there once before, but this time we took on some more adventurous rolls. Fine choice.

Another beautiful day, another breathtaking Kona Sunset.

Kona 2010 Day 2

2010-03-17T17:07:00.000-07:00

No tsunami! This is the morning headline:

Our first full day back in Paradise started off with a refreshing 100% Kona iced coffee (for me) and later a decadent breakfast the Royal Kona restaurant. They offer a buffet or menu. We have tried both, and have come to prefer the menu options better. This time we went for the very rich eggs benedict with avocado and rock shrimp. It hit us slowly, but was definitely a pound of rocks by late morning. For more on the food romp through Kona, check out Dan's food blog.

As our food settled, we headed up to Kahalu'u Beach, a wonderful spot to snorkel. Easy access, clear water, and always relatively calm. Unfortunately, we got all the way to the park and realized we forgot our snorkel gear! So we rented some (that was actually nicer than our own) and a had a lovely time. We bought little boogie boards at WalMart and I found my snorkeling adventures much more enjoyable and relaxing this trip. People in Hawai`i love Walmart.

After lunch at Huggo's on the Rock's - truly one of the finest establishments on the island - we strolled around and looked in many art galleries. We had it in our minds that we'd be buying some original art for our new house (we bought it in October) on this trip. We eventually did, but we'll get to that later. We met the manager of one of the galleries along Ali`i Drive - a real character - and he gave us some local scoop on the neighboring businesses. Merchants are very friendly in Kona, and while it's their job it really feels genuine. We walked in and out of dozens of businesses throughout the week, and were never left to feel overly pressured to buy or even slightly sneered at for just looking.

We ended the day trying out a new restaurant- a thriving chain restaurant with hustle, bustle, live music and pretty tasty food. Since it's been almost two weeks since we returned, I'm having some difficulty pinpointing every exact detail. Which probably speaks to what a nicely paced vacation we had...and we had 6 more days to go!

Kona 2010 Day 1

2010-03-16T18:21:00.000-07:00

It has been less than a year since our glorious 3 week journey through Oahu and the Big Island. But here in rainy Seattle, we really needed a short sun break in late February/early March. So, while our heart will always be in Hilo, we booked a one-week stay in Kona - back at the Royal Kona to be exact.

Kona offers consistent sunshine, superb art galleries, a diverse range of restaurants, and an array of exciting water adventures - all within walking distance. This is the kind of trip we were looking for, and it's exactly what we got (and more!).

Day 1: Saturday, 2/27

We attempted to redeem some airlines miles through Alaska to take advantage of their nonstop from Seattle to Kona, but our timing did not prevail. Thus, we stuck with our tried and true Hawaiian Airlines morning flight. As always, they were right on time and beat the expected arrival time in Honolulu. We stopped at the Kona Brewing Company in the airport for our usual round of small bites and cocktails. Only this time, the first sip of rum-juice deliciousness was offset by the images on the TV screens: an impending tsuanami was headed for the islands! Just that morning, a major earthquake rocked Chile and sent panic throughout the island chain. No town was more on high alert than Hilo, whose long history of tsunami destruction has left its citizens scarred and anxious.

Our flight to Kona was not delayed, and by the time we boarded there had been no reports of any massive waves. After our brief inter-island flight to Kona, we quickly claimed our baggage and then headed to the car rental transport van. The driver announced that it was a "good day, no tsunami." So any fears we had of a ruined vacation were already allayed, setting us up for a wonderful week in the tropics!

Anyone traveling to Hawai`i (or really, anywhere) knows that screaming deals are bouncing around like a baby in an inflatable castle. Car rental companies are at the top of the list, and I just couldn't resist the convertible for only $15 more per day. I had never drive one before, and as it turned out, Kona was in a drought. So, perfect.

Our good fortune continued when we checked into our hotel. Apparently, due to the evacuation that morning, most of the housekeeping staff took the day off. Many people were waiting for clean rooms, but ours was ready upon check-in! We love the Royal Kona for its convenience, affordable ocean front rooms, and splendid bar. You won't find a lot of glamour or extra amenities, but it's comfortable and we tend to be creatures of habit. Also, they make really really good mai tais!

So, that's where we headed first. Don the Beachcomber's Bar. To our delight, the drink menu now featured "flights" of drinks - including Mai tais.

Later, we walked up and down Ali`i drive, soaking in the atmosphere and scoping out any changes that took place within the last 10 months. We only spent one day in Kona last June, and we missed it.

That night we ventured out to the venerable Lulu's for a comfort food feast of tuna melts and mahi mahi sandwiches (and, of course, heaps of fries). We ended the night with a browse through the ABC Store (on this trip we discovered it's a weakness and purchased so many items we qualifed for gifts at the end of the week!).

Tired from the flight, energized by the velvety air, at night's end we were in that perfectly balanced state of impending unconciousness mixed with grade school excitment over what we'd do the next day.

Kalama Days

2009-09-02T13:53:00.001-07:00

This past weekend we decided to finally make it to the Kalama Heritage Festival (commonly known as Kalama Days), a three-day celebration of both Hawaiian and Native American cultures. The festival takes place in the eponymous town of Kalama, named after John Kalama. John was a Native Hawaiian who married a Native American, and raised a large family in the area. They became sort of a "first family" of Cowlitz County; thus, the town is named after them.

Now in its 5th year, the festival is produced by Hale o'Halawai O Hawai'i, a non-profit, multicultural organization dedicated to preserving the traditional Polynesian, Pacific Islanders, and Native Americans' blended bloodlines culture and heritage through educational programs, services, community performances, and outreach programs. (per web site)

The festival took place at the lovely Port of Kalama Marine Park, right up against the Columbia River. As we parked our car, we walked past a lei making demonstration. There were several food vendors, ranging from Hawaiian local (shave ice, teri chicken) to the more common fair items (elephant ears, banana splits). We opted to pay for the lu`au and conert (Makaha Sons were the headliner).

In the park, arranged in a square were various vendors selling items or propogating literature. Some were the usual Hawaiian crafts, other were a bit baffling like the US Census and Church of Latter Day Saints. I guess all in the name of aloha.

We did not have time for any of the workshops or lectures. We caught the tail end of the `imu ceremony and then we walked around the park until it was time for lu`au seating. The weather perked up just in time for lu`au seating at 5:00. Perhaps we are getting jaded with all the Hawaiian food we eat, but I have to say I was a bit disappointed with the spread. No poi? No lomi lomi salmon? Green salad, watermelon and bread? But the kalua pig was tasty, and the haupia scored several points. I had never had it with toasted coconut on top. Nice touch.

Then came the entertainment. The opening acts were Alika Nako`oka and Naki`i. We enjoyed some hapa haole tunes with our meal, and then came the headliners. First, Keahi Conjugacion performed, a relative of Brother Noland. She concentrated most of her set on smooth Island jazz. And talked quite a bit. The show ran very late, and it was close to 8:30 when Makaha Sons finally took the stage. But they were worth the wait. When the three men harmonize, it sounds like something from another world (as Dan commented). They sing beautifully, play beautifully and electrify the stage with their presence, ease and confidence. I cannot wait to see them again, but not after sitting in one place for 4 hours!

All in all, it was a relaxing escape from the city. We got to stay at a Red Lion in Kelso, Washington - that doesn't happen very often.

Next we look forwad to the Live Aloha Festival coming up on September 13th!

Mele and friends at Kaua`i Family Restaurant

2009-08-22T17:00:00.000-07:00

Our friend Gary Medeiros is a local kine hero, with his male falsetto mastery and command of the `ukulele. He plays all over town, often with Auntie Manu. In fact, he was recently in Idaho performing. We first met him at last year's Live Aloha Festival in Seattle Center, and then saw him again playing at the luau after the Pineapple Classic. We are lucky to have such a talented kanaka in our midst.

One of Gary's regular gigs is the brunch hour at Kaua`i Family Restaurant. We made it once before, but that was too long ago. So this morning we decided to head down to Georgetown for some `ono food, friendly service and mele nani (beautiful music).

Gary and friends did not disappoint. Dressed in black to (not celebrate) Hawai`i 50th anniversary as a State, the trio played the duration with many impromptu hula intermixed from the lively audience.

There was a special on the menu to commemorate the anniversary -- poke and kalua pig steak with cabbage. Dan couldn't resist that, and at 5.99 the price could not be beat. I went with the traditional rice, eggs and bacon breakfast. Of course any trip to Kaua`i Family Restaurant necessitates grabbing a hold of a big brown bag of goodness - malasadas. The Portuguese donuts are a blissful way to heart disease, fried in coconut oil and not as sweet as your typical bakery donut.

We were blessed with a visit from our old friend Jerry, who we just don't get to see enough of these days. We introduced him to the malasada, to which he concurred was heavenly.

If you are looking for an authentic Hawaiian local experience with refreshingly low prices, Kaua`i Family Restaurant is hard to beat. The bakery/gift shop next door is worth a look, too. The guava and passion fruit cakes come in individual servings, and are very seductive. (They are closed Sunday and Monday).

Google adds `olelo Hawai`i!

2009-08-08T15:54:00.000-07:00

Hawaiian language added to Google

By Rob Shikina

POSTED: 01:30 a.m. HST, Aug 07, 2009

Next time you do a search on the Web, you could be selecting "Huli ia Google," the Hawaiian words for "search Google."

COURTESY KEOLA DONAGHY
Hawaiian words and sentences have been added to the Google search engine. Shown
here, a screen shot of Google's search page in Hawaiian.

The Hawaiian language version of Google's search engine is now available on Apple's Safari browser through a project by a University of Hawaii-Hilo assistant professor, who also translated the Netscape Web browser in 1997.

Keola Donaghy of the Ke Haka 'Ula O Ke'elikolani College of Hawaiian Language estimates he spent 100 hours creating the translation. The Hawaiian version provides instructions in Hawaiian on Google's search engine, but results are still in English.

To complete the translation, Keola provided Hawaiian versions of 2,500 "strings" -- words, sentences or paragraphs used by Google's search engine.

For three years, Keola had been trying to persuade Google to add Hawaiian to the dozens of other languages available.

Last year, Te Taka Keegan, a lecturer at the University of Waikato in New Zealand, opened the door for Donaghy while working at Google.

Keegan had created a Maori language version for Google that took about eight years, he said by e-mail.

A Hawaiian version "will give native Hawaiians a sense of pride, a sense of identity and a confirmation that their language has real purpose in today's modern society," he wrote.

Donaghy said the translation will positively affect the Hawaiian community.

"It tells our children that the Hawaiian language is on par with the other languages of the world," he said. "It increases the status of the language in their eyes and also around the world."

Google's Hawaiian version can be accessed after selecting olelo Hawaii, or Hawaiian language, inside the system preferences on Apple.

The Hawaiian version for all Web browsers will be available as soon as the end of this week, Donaghy said.

Keola wants Hawaiian language to be available in as many contexts as possible and is trying to persuade Facebook to add a Hawaiian interface.

"We live in a society where telecommunications is a huge part of our life," he said. "For us to ignore that world, we are saying the Hawaiian language doesn't belong here."

Copyright © 2009 starbulletin. com

http://www.starbull etin.com/ news/20090807_ Hawaiian_ language_ added_to_ Google.html

NW Hawai`i Times Lives On!

2009-07-26T16:07:00.000-07:00

Sadly, this past year the slumping economy got the best of our beloved Northwest Hawai`i Times. It is no more, but we just learned that one of its most celebrated columnists has resurrected his two monthly columns on-line!

You can now catch Uncle Danny at his new blog called "Holoholo Northwest." Here he will be posting both his Holoholo column (what's new about town, Hawai`i-style) and Kama`aina Profile (featuring a former island local now living in the PNW area).

Mahalo to Uncle Danny for keeping the aloha alive!

Candles with Aloha

2009-07-16T20:02:00.000-07:00

Our friend Keoni just launched a Hawaiian-scented candle business! Check him out!

http://www.maikalanicandles.com

Keeping Aloha Alive on the Mainland

2009-07-16T17:00:00.000-07:00

Well, we've been back on the mainland now for 12 days. In addition to catching up on our jobs, house work, family and friends, we've been trying to keep that palpable spirit of aloha pumping through our veins.

As Dan wrote about on this food blog, we spent our first day back visiting the Hawai`i General Store and Luau Polynesian Lounge, two Seattle venues that pass the aloha test.

While I am on a slew of mailing lists for local Hawaiian events, often life gets in the way -- or rather, I let it. Last night was the first step forward in not letting that happen as we are missing out on some local treasures. Every week there are concerts, films, luaus and craft fairs that bring people together to celebrate the islands.

So, on a humble Wednesday evening (a very sunny one at that), we set out after work to Central Cinema. Central Cinema is a movie theater that also serves food. And not just snacks. Pizzas, salads, calzones. And beer and wine. The entire front section of the theater is situated with "tablettes" -- two person sitting areas with a small table area that resembles a counter or bar.

The reason we were there? I received an email while we were on the Big Island about a night of short films featuring Hawaiian filmmakers and hula. I was determined to make it so I did not erase the email.

The night centered around young filmmaker Christen Marquez, and her work-in-progress documentary "Huku Inoa: To Weave a Name." Christen was born on Oahu, but left for the mainland at a young age along with her father and brothers. Her mother, diagnosed schizophrenic, stayed behind. Christen was given her inoa (name) by her mother, a mele (poem) that Christen could never discern. Finally, she made the decision to journey back to Oahu and find out the truth. Obstacles ensue and cultural differences float to the surface.

The night began with three hula performances by Christen herself (who proclaimed she was a filmmaker who does hula and not a hula dancer who makes films). I thought she was lovely. She began with a hapa haole hula (mostly English with some Hawaiian words sprinkled in), moved to a protest hula (protesting the overthrow of the Monarachy in 1893) and closing with a somber but beautiful hula about forbidden love.

The night then segued into a showcase of three Hawai`i-based filmmakers: one experimental, one animation and one narrative. We thought the animation ("Ipo Lei Manu") was particularly impressive. It followed the words to Queen Kapiolani's last poem to her husband, King Kalaukaua, while he was abroad. Kalakaua died on that trip and never got to read his wife's beautiful words.

Christen showed both her very first short (made when she was 17!) and then came the headliner. The film, which will be 60 minutes when completed, shows much potential. PBS Hawai`i has been giving her much support, but she still has a long way to go to fund the remainder of the production.

Christen's website has more information, including a trailer for her film and a place for people to donate.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 22

2009-07-04T23:59:00.000-07:00

This morning we awoke early - before 6am - and finished the last bits of packing and cleaning. It was hard to say goodbye to what had become our home for the last two weeks, but we left in good spirits.

We made one final stop (for this trip, anyway) to Sirius Coffee on our way to the airport so I could get my iced coffee fix. I wish more places in Seattle sold iced coffee. Other than Starbucks, it seems that most places only offer an iced americano (also good, but not the same thing).

After a quick check-in at the Hilo airport, I wandered around a bit. They are doing a lot of construction, and hopefully will be adding a few more restaurants/shops. I decided to wait until Honolulu to spend any money, and then retired to the sitting area and read my book, side by side with Dan.

The flight to Honolulu was very quick, less than 40 minutes and then we had three hours to spend in Honolulu. It was a perfectly clear day, and we welcomed the chance to linger a bit. We perused some shops, bought some magazines (and mac nut popcorn for the plane) before heading to Kona Brewing Company for some drinks and nachos. It's a comfortable space, even though it is now longer a Stinger Ray's. Service was great.

Our long flight home was pleasantly uneventful. I finished the novel I bought in Hilo on Thursday, called Simple Life. It is written by Big Island resident Mia King, and tells the story of a Manhattan family who relocates to Waimea. The wife, and protagonist, begins to unravel as her marriage (and world) falls out from under her when she realizes Paradise isn't all massages and pool-side cocktails. One chapter was missing, but I was able to fill in the blanks pretty well. It's a fast read, and offers some keen insight into facing one's own need to change in light of how others are impacted. The protagonist was not particularly likeable, but I think that was partly the point. The story showed how displacement can be a catalyst for positive change, and emotional repair.

Around 10pm, after seeing fireworks from the plane, we landed at Sea-Tac. It felt comforting to be back on our home turf, and the ease of catching a cab and the 70 degree heat helped with the transition to Mainland life.

Having adjusted to Island time, we were up past midnight catching up on TV and giving longer overdue affection to our cat (who seemed to miss us dearly).

This may have been our best trip to Hawai`i yet. But then, they just keep getting better. Soon it will be time to start planning the next one. We have now visited 4 of the main islands - Oahu, Kaua`i, Moloka`i and of course the Big Island. While Kaho`o lawe and Ni`ihau require special permission, Maui and Lana`i are open to us any time. On the flight home, we made a remaining to-do list for the Big Island, and I doubt it will be long before we return there. The 3 nights somewhere else before returning "home" worked out very well, and may work as a model for future trips. We shall see. For now, we'll unpack and revel in the joy of this glorious time we've had together in our favorite place--and hopefully keep the aloha alive to share with others back home.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 21

2009-07-03T21:00:00.000-07:00

Today was our last full day on the Big Island. Our flight out of Hilo tomorrow is fairly early (9:40am) and then we spend a great deal of the day at the Honolulu airport (which we plan to utilize as continued vacation time!).

We decided to get much of the packing and cleaning out of the way early this morning so it wasn't hanging over us throughout the day. By the time we finished, the sun came out and we enjoyed one last day in Lagoon Shangrila - the sun, the birds, the lizards, the lagoon, the hot tub. Dan made us fresh leis!

With a three week vacation in Paradise, one may expect an epiphany or some sort of revelation. I am not sure either of us has had anything so dramatic, but this morning on my jog I came to realize just how relaxed, calm, energized and confident I feel. I will bring this feeling back to the mainland, along with the Kona coffee and macademia nuts.

This being our third visit together to the Big Island, we've been able to dig a little deeper. See things a bit more from the local side, and explore more of the vast terrain. But more on impressions when we return.

We will surely miss this place.

In late afternoon, we decided to take one final stroll down to the tide pools for one last snorkel (for this trip). While a bit spooked from Wednesday's drowning, we had a few days to let it sink (bad choice of words) in. The tide pools are a safe place, and one that gives us great pleasure. While the tragedy might make us a bit more aware, we won't let it keep us out of the water. Withdrawing out of fear is just not the way to lead a full life. However, this time we used floaty devices and I loved it. I laid across a little board and enjoyed the fish and coral while feeling the sun on my back!

In keeping with the theme of indelibly etched positive memories, we headed back to Pahoa for our final supper on the Big Island. This time we tried Kaleo's, an Italian-fusion restaurant right at the beginning of the strip. We were first met by a greeter in the parking lot who told us where to park. At that point I knew this would not be a typical Pahoa joint. In fact, it was not at all. We walked into candles, red walls and a romantic atmosphere. Slowly, the parking lot filled and we can see why: this place is golden! Dan will write more about it.

Back at the house, we did some final packing and then lit all the tiki torches for one last round in the hot tub.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 20

2009-07-02T21:55:00.000-07:00

This morning we ventured over to the Mauna Loa Macademia Nut factory, near the Panaewa Zoo. As far as we know, it is the largest mac nut manufacturer. We began by browsing the visitor center, which is mostly a gift shop (with free samples). Then we took the self-guided tour of the factory, where we peered through glass to watch the workers and machinery. There were videos to go along with each stations (ie, salting, sorting, glazing, packaging, etc).

It was neat to see the nuts move along the assembly and shoot down slides. I love those shows on the Travel Channel that go inside candy factories to learn how it's all made, and this felt sort of like that experience (without voice over).

On the 3 mile drive toward the factory, we passed many mac nut tree. Mac nuts can only be harvested once they have fallen to the ground. They then have to have both their husks and shells removed before moving along in the process for consumption.

Taste buds aroused, we headed into Hilo for one final stop at Basically Books. We both had a heck of a time deciding on books for the flight home. I ended up going with a collection of stories by Jack London describing his time in Hawai`i and a novel by a local Big Island author. Dan found a book about a couple who move to the Big Island from the mainland and try to live off the grid (and learn it's not so easy).

After going into Pahoa for daily errands for so many days, it felt comforting to be back in Hilo (the "big city"). We had lunch at Cronie's again, and I ended up eating another Caesar salad (this time, with chicken). The food and drinks were great, but more than anything we were craving that Hilo hospitality. Perhaps it just comes with living in a port town and wanting to please the customer for the sake of business. People in Hilo seem to be the friendliest, and happiest people on the island.

After lunch we perused a massive furniture store before zipping over to the Lyman Museum to use our rain check. We viewed the upstairs with a more careful eye, and even wandered through the downstairs exhibits again. The staff there was friendly as always, though we were unable to figure out if Dan's cousin still works there as no one seemed to know.

I had so much energy today that I went running twice. We enjoyed our L&L leftovers and the remainders of our desserts from Island Naturals.

Tomorrow will be our last full day on the Big Island. We haven't decided how to spend it just yet, but a portion of it will be designated for packing and cleaning up the house.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 19

2009-07-01T21:30:00.000-07:00

Today began on a sober note, as Dan witnessed a man drown in the Kapoho Tide Pools. The man was later identified as Hamilton Manley. A recent news story can be found here. Obviously, the experience left Dan shook up. After hearing the helicopters and aid units come rushing by the house, it was then time for the monthly Tsunami Practice Warning. It takes place at 11:45 am on the first working day of each month. We are situated in an evacuation area, and had already checked to see where we would need to run to in the event of the real thing. The warning is simply a practice, not a drill. It's a time to give pause, to think about what one would do if/when the real thing happens.

Tragedy, both real and potential, did not get the best of us. We decided to take a run/walk down to Ahalanui and enjoy the warm and safe swimming pond there. The sun was intense at the beginning of our run, but by the time we reached the park it began to pour. The pond was packed, and it was an extremely surreal sight to see so many people inside the pond with a torrential downpour. But the water sure felt great!

After walking back to the house, we felt we deserved an adult beverage. We headed to Pahoa, to what has been one of our favorite little Mexican joints on the island, Luquin's. Whenever we stop in, lunch or dinner, the waitresses are always shoving their famous margaritas down our throats. So we figured stopping in just for a drink or two would be fine. Apparently, not on Wednesdays. Or this Wednesday. I'm fine with people deciding to go dry, but only if it makes sense and it's clear to the customer. It's annoying to serve one day and not the other for seemingly arbitrary reasons. The waitress had an increduclous response when we asked for a drink menu, too, as if we should have known better. Strange, since every other spot in town was serving.

While we were in town, and perfectly sober, we decided to check out the new Pahoa Village Museum. Still in its nascent stage, it's a bit unfocused but shows potential. We were expecting to learn more about the history of Pahoa, but much of the museum is dedicated to Mauna Kea with a slight political bent. The rest of the museum showcases some old Hawaiian photographs from the old Waikiki Golden Age, some maps, odds and ends and stencil drawings of birds.

The back of the museum is also used as an entertainment venue and the front end has a small smoothie bar.

After the museum, we headed to Island Naturals for some of their tempting desserts (for later) and some locally brewed beer. We then rested up for our night lava hike.

Dan had called the lava hotlines this morning, and learned that we weren't allowed to get very close to the streaming flow into the water. But we still enjoyed the experience. We drove down the Red Road until it stops at Kalapana (which was destroyed by the Volcano in 1990). There is a convenience store, snack shack, kava bar and a few lava exhibits at the juncture.

The hike is all on fairly new lava rock, and continues to a nice beach. Off to our right we could see the vast plumes of steam. However, we did not see red. Some people say that if you stay past dusk you can see some "fireworks" within the plumes, but we weren't sure about that. It was a pleasant walk, and we did get some good photos.

We then hit Pahoa for our first L&L experience. Boy, talk about a dangerous fast-food joint. I had to stop myself from gorging on my entire container of curry chicken, fried rice, chow mein and mochiko chicken. I had no idea they had a Chinese buffet in addition to all the Hawaiian favorites.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 18

2009-06-30T21:30:00.000-07:00

Today we set out to take the "Upper Road" across the island to see the Hamakua Coast and then the northwest pocket. The day began, not surprisingly, with a stop at Sirius Coffee in Pahoa for my iced coffee.

We then hit the Pahoa post office to mail something. The parking lot was packed when we got there and moments later completely empty. I guess locals are efficient with their errands.

Fueled and ready for take-off, we headed up the road to Akaka Falls. Remarkably larger than its down-the-road neighbor Rainbow Falls, Akaka is worth the trip not only for its own majesty but also for its verdant surroundings. The park has an easy paved walkway for visitors to view the lush scenery.

We enjoyed the stroll, and spotted a couple rainbows on the falls.

On our way back, we stumbled across a pleasant surprise: the little strip of town known as Honomu. Somehow this hamlet was completely off my radar, but the main drag has a host of shops, galleries, restaurants and a delightful bakery. I had a difficult time choosing, but I went with a cream bun - sweet bread pastry with bavarian cream filling. Yum.

I later read in a guide book that the pastries were poor tasting. I disagree.

The next town on the highway was Laupahoehoe, the once seaside village destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Now a small, mauka (mountainside) town, Laupahoehoe has just a few buildings (including a train musuem, which we saved for a future visit). Instead, we continued past town a few miles to Laupahoehoe Point - the northernmost point on the island. Once the town's center, the area is now both a park and monument to those teachers and school children who lost their lives in 1946.

The park is well maintained, with a large grassy area, beach volleyball pit and barbeques. The scenery is quite breathtaking, too.

From Laupahohoe Point, we continued on our journey through another small town, Honoka`a. Most people whip through this town on their way to view Waipi`o Valley (aka Valley of the Kings). Once past town the regular road ends at a lookout. For those whose cars can handle it, there is a 25% grade steep road leading down to the valley. The valley was once thriving, home to many Kings and an agricultural paradise. The tsunamis obliterated the crops, though, and only recently has there been a movement to re-settle the valley.

The community who lives there currently are off the grid, supposedly unfriendly to tourists and solve all disputes themselves rather than involve the local authorities.

Just back Honoka`a, there is a shopping center with Tex's Drive-In. The food is said to be mediocre, but their malasadas (Portuguese donuts) are famous all over the State. So we just had to try one!

The place was bustling at lunch, with people gathering at the outside tables enjoying the food and sunshine.

With only donuts in my system, I was beginning to crave real food. We drove through the manicured and lively town of Waimea - home to Parker Ranch. However, we decided to keep pushing through to the Kohala Coast as we had our hearts set on Tommy Bahamas Cafe at the Mauna Lani Shops. The town, at a higher elevation, is misty and cooler than much of the island. I was surprised by its sprawl. I can see why people choose to spend an entire day exploring it. It is unlike any other place on the island. With all the ranch lanch and rolling hills, it feels like you're in central California.

We made our way to Mauna Lani shops only to learn that Tommy Bahama would not be open until 4pm. For the first time on the trip, we really felt the drought of tourism in this shopping center. Or else maybe they just generally are quiet on Tuesday afternoons.

We used our handy Big Island Dining guide and spotted a Mexican place opened for lunch in the town of Kawaihae. Kawaihae, just up the coast, is a small harbor town. It features the original Cafe Pesto, an art gallery, a restaurant/music venue called the Blue Dragon and Tres Hombres. It was a nice setting for a relaxing lunch.

After lunch I dropped into the gallery to learn that all the artists featured lived on the Big Island - pretty cool. We then backtracked a bit to visit the Pu`ukohola State Park

Free of charge, the park is a well-run operation on the grounds of three important heiau (ancient Hawaiian temples built for spiritual purposes). The most famous of the three, Pu`uokohola was built by Kamehameha the Great. He was told if we built this great heiau, then he would unify the islands. Ultimately, this became true.

The other visible heiau was used a fort during battle, while the other is now underwater but served as a temple to the sharks. The park is set up against a beach that was known to be frequented (and still is apparently) by sharks. Some Hawaiians revered sharks and believed them to be aumakua (spiritual ancestors).

Next we needed to cool off, as we were traveling through the hottest and driest part of the island. Dan spotted a great little spot for swimming and snorkeling called Kapa`a. We enjoyed the refreshing water and saw some kids fishing.

Refreshed (and a bit salty), we headed north to the quaint towns of Hawi and Kapa`au. Both towns have been experiencing a bit of a renaissance lately, with many artists and small businesses moving in. I was impressed by how tidy the main streets were, with freshly painted facades and well-kept sidewalks.

The second town, Kapa`au has one of the Kamehameha Statues.

We took many mental notes of places to come back to some day in both of these towns.

Just past Kapa`au the road ends at the Pololu Valley lookout. While not as epic as Waipi`o, this valley is impressive and lush all the same.

Today we also visited the fourth (and westernmost) compass point of the island, at `Upolu Point. Just like at South point, we saw huge windmills.

On our journey back to Kapoho, we took Highway 250 to cut back to Highway 19. It was a windy, but scenic route through the Kohala Mountains.

By the time we reached Pahoa it was nightfall and we were just in time to grab a bit at the Pahoa Village Cafe (now our third restaurant in Pahoa). It's a large venue, with the usual local fare on the menu. I had to have chicken katsu (a craving I'd had since this morning). They have local beers on tap, a stage and dance floor and a variety of entertainment. Tonight was a mellow night, which was probably for the best as we were pretty wiped out from our long day. We have now seen the entire island!

Hawai`i 2009: Day 17

2009-06-29T20:30:00.000-07:00

Early this morning we returned to Ahalanlui for some more soothing water and to hopefully see turtles. While we did not see turtles, we enjoyed having the pond almost all to ourselves.

Dan wasn't feeling well later in the day so we spent our last Monday on the island having a resort day of sorts. The sun was shining bright so I caught some rays, read a bit about Physics while Dan did some palm frond weaving indoors. He perked up in time for dinner, and should be in fine shape for tomorrow's trip across the upper road of the island.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 16

2009-06-28T21:30:00.000-07:00

This morning Dan did a little snorkeling while I watched. I get a little nervous when he goes too far out, but he assures me it's all safe. After he showered up, we headed to Pahoa for another stop at Sirius Coffee. I guess the service - and iced coffee - was just that good!

From there we drove up the road to the Sunday Farmer's Market. Just as we pulled in to park our car, it started to pour rain. As we were in tank tops, we were startled and for the first time on this trip, a bit chilly! We cut the trip short after picking up some food items we needed, and this t-shirt I spotted last Sunday and decided I needed:

Since we didn't stop at the farmer's market food court this time, we were famished by the time we got home from all our grocery shopping. We wolfed down some hot dogs and then settled in to another sunny afternoon in the yard.

Three essentials for survival on the Big Island: sunscreen, insect repellant and water.

We have been visited by a mongoose several times, and this morning Dan spotted this neighborhood cat.

After the usual reading/running/swimming it was a tasty dinner and more True Blood. We are down to the last three episodes. We are enjoying the show very much, but it leaves us a bit spooked as we go to bed--especially with all the strange noises we hear.

Hawai`I 2009: Day 15

2009-06-27T21:34:00.000-07:00

We got ourselves out of bed fairly early this morning, and were on the road by about 7:30. Instead of making coffee at the house, we stopped in Pahoa at a little coffee shop/internet cafe called Sirius Coffee. The barista was exceptionally warm and friendly, and poured me one of the best cups of iced coffee I've ever tasted. She tried to tempt me into some "toddy" concoction that they are known for, something that cold brews overnight and is extra powerful. Maybe next time.

From there we got in our little PT Cruiser rental car and headed off to the "Lower Road" (aka Highway 11). We passed through several small towns and Volcanoes National Park before stopping at Punalu`u Black Sand Beach. The beach is 60 miles from both Kona and Hilo so is often less crowded than some of the other island beaches. The main attraction of this beach, though, is the sea turtles. They like to rest on the black sand beach and munch on the seaweed close to shore.

They did not disappoint. We say about 8 of them in total, either on the beach or in the water.

It's a nice spot, a bit windy. We saw some folks fishing with a hukilau and it looked like there were some people camping.

After taking countless photos of the beautiful honu, we got back in the car and headed further West, to Pu'honua o Honaunau National Park. We visited the park last year, and enjoyed the self-guided tour of the replicated Polynesian Village and the Place of Refuge itself. The grounds are considered sacred, as they used to be used as a "honaunau" or "place of refuge" during the kapu years in Ancient Hawai`i. If you broke a kapu (tabu, law), then your only option to avoid death was to find the nearest honaunau.

The park is a beautiful setting, with coconut palms swaying amidst wood-carved ki`i and grass hales. The other side of the park is also a great snorkeling and swimming spot.

Today and tomorrow, the park is host to the 48th Annual Hawaiian Cultural Festival. Dan and I both spotted this in the local papers and wanted to make it a priority for this trip. The festival had no cover charge, and featured mostly Hawaiian ancient crafts and demonstrations. We got to see kapa (bark from mulberry trees) being soaked and pounded out before it later becomes clothing. There were also lauhala and palm frond weaving, bamboo flute making, canoe rides, lomi lomi massage, and gourd painting. In fact, we got to meet the guy we saw in a video at the Hawaiiana Live show in Hilo who has resurrected the ancient art form. He has a studio in the Holulaloa area and was very friendly. I also received a bookmark made for me from one of the stations that featured dyes and templates (though I doubt they were called 'templates.')

After perusing the grounds for a spell, our appetites got the best of us and we decided to drive into Kona for lunch at one of our favorite spots - Huggo's on the Rocks.

After spending some time at the Royal Kona on our last two trips to the Big Island, it felt a bit strange to be looking for parking. While Hilo is the largest city on the island, Kona is the commercial hub and home to the tourist. That means a lot more traffic and congestion, though nothing compared to Honolulu.

We enjoyed our lunch on the water, and then poked around town. Our ice cream cones almost melted immediately in the humidity, but were worth the mess. A few stores have closed, a few new restaurants have opened, but Kona remains pretty much the same as it did a year ago. I do love how walkable it is, and the energy is always up. If you stay close to town, you almost wouldn't need a rental car unless you planned to do outside exploring.

But we had more on our agenda this trip so we'll have to wait and spend more time in Kona the next time. We got back in our car and headed north up Highway 190 to reach Saddle Road. Saddle Road used to be off-limits to any 2WD vehicle. But thanks to some hard work and pressure from the citizens, the road is on its way to being more navigable. It's also a bit of a short-cut through the island, as it weaves between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa and eventually ends up in Hilo after 53 miles of winding road.

Along the way, the terrain changes from barren lava rock with cacti growing to grassy pasture lands. The construction is working East-West so the early stretches were pretty bumpy. I believe this has caused some friction across the island as people on the West side feel snubbed as the East side holds the county seat and thus seemingly gets preferential treatment.

It was a long day of driving, putting us back at the house just before 6pm. Still some sun left, I went for a quick jog before relaxing for the night. We made due with food we had in the house, and enjoyed seeing the first starts appear while in the hot tub.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 14

2009-06-26T20:15:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow we are taking a big road trip over to the other side of the island so today we decided to take it easy. We began the day with some snorkeling at the tide pools, and this time I did much better.

We spent the rest of the day at the house, reading our books (we both finished another one), snacking, getting a little sun and spotting geckos (and their eggs!).

As evening fell, we couldn't help but utilize the hot tub as it had warmed considerably in the afternoon heat. It was a cooker today. We ate our dinner outside. The dining area has mosquito netting all the way around it so if we ever get tired of the bugs we can just zip ourselves up into our own little bubble. The owners also supplied us with candles. There have been few mosquitoes at this house, but the flies and ants are everywhere.

Because we awoke a bit earlier than usual, and plan to wake up early for our road trip tomorrow, we pushed everything up to make for an early night's slumber. We'll see how successful we are in waking up at dawn, though.

I have also discovered another Big Island blog. I saw a sticker for it in Pahoa and decided to check it out. It is called Big Island Chronicle. The author, Tiffany Edwards Hunt, is an accomplished journalist as well as the former legislative aide to the Puna Councilwoman. The writing is sharp, information current and updates often. We've added it to our list of favorites!

Hawai`i 2009: Day 13

2009-06-25T21:30:00.000-07:00

This morning we ventured about a mile from our house to Ahalanui Park, where we enjoyed another volcanic-heated swimming pond. This one made Champagne Pond seem chilly! The water, at low tide, was bath-tub warm, and we found it difficult to pull ourselves out. It's also much easier to get to than Champagne Pond - just a drive-in county park. There was even with a lifeguard on duty.

This spot seems to be quite popular with the locals, and we can see why. What better way to soak away one's stressful day - or even not so stressful!

We had not yet been to a beach so we headed to Kehena Beach next - a black sand beach with high surf near the vacation rental we stayed at in 2007. It's a slight hike down, but a pleasant spot with plenty of locals and usually some naked people/hippies. We brought some snacks and our books and were all set to camp out when the rain came. That, and the tide was starting to come in and possibly force us out of our spot.

Our abbreviated beach time was made up for by a delicious lunch in Pahoa - and not at Luqin's this time! We finally tried a different restaurant--the Thai place called Ning's. In the pouring rain, it seemed appropriate to eat one of Seattle's most popular cuisines. We were both impressed, and having worked up an appetite swimming and walking, inhaled our food.

After lunch it was back to Malama Market and then our first gas station stop. Not bad for almost two weeks of driving. To fill the tank it cost just over $40. Gas is a bit over $3 a gallon here, so a bit more than Seattle. And how do food costs stack up? Well, some things really are as expensive as people say - like jars of salsa, milk, six packs of beer. However, local produce is cheap and plentiful. And sales tax is just a little over 4%. We find we spend a bit more than in Seattle on average at the grocery store, but about the same at most medium-range restaurants.

This doesn't necessarily mean Hawai`i is moderately priced, but when comparing to the fairly high cost-of-living in Seattle the difference isn't quite as shocking than, say, if you were from Little Rock.

More of the same in the late afternoon and evening: reading, lounging, eating, running, drinking, relaxing, True Blood.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 12

2009-06-24T21:30:00.000-07:00

Today we found ourselves back in little, old Hilo. After a hearty breakfast at Ken's (so Dan could finally get his fix of mac-nut pancakes), we took advantage once again of the Wednesday Hilo Farmer's Market. We only needed a few items for dinner, but were also talked into some delicious green salsa after tasting it, and a bar of soap made right here on the Big Island.

On our walk to the market, we came across these chickens.

From there we drove up the road to Wailoa Park - a spot we always marvel at when we drive by but until today had never set foot in. Prior to the great tsunamis, the park was a Japanese neighborhood known as Shinmachi. When that neighborhood was destroyed (along with neighboring Waikea), the area was turned into a park.

The Wailoa River runs through the park, and there are several curvy bridges connecting the different areas. There are fishing spots, a few pavillions, picnic tables, and several different types of ducks.

After touring the expansive park, we stopped at the Wailoa Center to take a peak. There was an expo of local photographer's work so we browsed around. Some really nice work -- and even a picture of Tacoma!

Before getting back in the car, we stopped to take a few photos of the second Kamehameha statue we've seen on the trip (the third is in Hawi, up the Kohala coast).

Heading back up Highway 11, our next stop was the Prince Kuhio Plaza. Yes, that would be a shopping mall. As we spend more time here, we get curious as the how the locals live and wanted to check out the major shopping mall in Hilo.

It's pretty much like any other mall, with a Sears, Macy's, food court, movie theater, athletic wear, toys, gadgets and a few local flavors. It has anything one would really need. Dan tried on a few hats, but did not find any to his liking.

The mall shares a parking lot with Hilo Hattie's, and it was time for our requisite visit for some free shell leis, kona coffee and a few other treats. We can find many similar items back in Seattle at the Hawai`i General Store (while supporting a local small business) so we tried not to go too crazy. It is a fun place to shop, though, and the staff is always very friendly and helpful without being too pushy.

Our last stop of the day was a place we generally avoid like the plague - WalMart - but we were searching for cheap DVDs. Since we have the time, we thought this vacation would be a good time to get into a new show. The other night we caught an episode of HBO's True Blood and found it compelling enough to invest in. So we picked up season one for a decent price, along with the latest issue of Big Island Weekly before heading back to Kapoho. Also, this trip to WalMart was much less stressful than last year when we were under pressure to pick up all the last-minute wedding details--and seemed less crazy/crowded than in time's past. Perhaps it was the time of day, or the economy.

Notice we don't talk a lot about the nightlife here. There is one, though small and generally centers around a few small venues with local musicians. Because we do so much during the day, and then cook our dinner at the house, we generally call it a day and relax with TV or books in the evening. We're kind of homebodies, though, and if one is looking for a more active nightlife on the Big Island it can surely be had. Each issue of The Big Island Weekly has a "pau hana" (after work) calendar for bands playing in bars, as well as a regular weekly calendar listing the various plays, concerts, festivals, activities, etc. happening around the island. There are also movie theaters with first-run movies.

One nightlife adventure we hope to partake in on this trip is the lava hike to see the red flow into the ocean.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 11

2009-06-23T21:30:00.000-07:00

Today started with a gorgeous morning - one of the nicest we've had so far. And, our sun burns were fading so we felt like we could enjoy the sunshine again.

We decided we needed some adventure so we headed out to the Eastern most point on the island by braving the red dirt road that picks up at the end of Highway 132 near where we are staying. This point, near a light tower, is considered to have some of the most pristine air in the entire world. Governments around the globe use it as a benchmark to compare to their air. (Hawaii the Big Island Revealed, 5th Edition).

But we were not there to test air. We made it as far as we could in our rental car and then braved the long, but beautiful, hike on jagged lava rock (a`a) until we reached our destination: Champagne Pond. While not drinkable, the pond is a naturally warmed, calm, clear ocean inlet. It's perfect for warming the bones, and seeing some fish. While not a snorkeler's paradise, we did enjoy seeing some fish and a moray eel. I particularly enjoyed the ease of getting in and out of the water -- and you can't beat 90 degree water!

This is definitely a hit, and worth the extra effort of finding it.

The hike back worked up our appetites and thirst so we headed back to our home away from vacation home (Malama Market) to pick up a few more supplies before lunch and cocktail hour. I enjoyed some leisurely time in the yard, finishing up the book I picked up in Hilo on the History of the Big Island.

Dogs like the pond, too.

DanG got the snorkeling bug later in the afternoon so he wandered down to the Kapoho Tide Pools again. After finishing up my book and cleaning up the house a bit, I jogged down to meet him. The waters were starting to get rough so he called it a day, and I went for a nice run around the neighborhood. The air on one of the roads I run on smells like slow roasted maple syrup. I wonder what that is? The other day I foraged a coconut on my run and brought it back for Dan.

After a bit more outdoor time, I held back, not wanting to drift back toward the red zone. DanG finished up a scrumptious dinner (homemade Kalua Pig - and enough to eat for days!), tended to his own sun burns and we planned out tomorrow morning.

While 10 nights is a decent time away from the daily routine and often is enough to make me feel replenished, I think something deeper starts to set in after that.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 10

2009-06-22T21:39:00.000-07:00

We awoke at 5:00am today to see the sunrise down by the tide pools. However, it was overcast, and then began to pour rain. We could not find shelter, did not have umbrellas and were generally a little too out of sorts to push through. So, back to bed until a more reasonable 8:00am rise.

Today was massage day at Kalani so I thought I'd do a little epsom salts treatment on my sun burn. As far as sun burns goes, this one is mid-range. I've had much worse, though this one does seem to be a bit stubborn - even after 2 days of non-stop aloe treatment. I spotted the epsom salts in the one of the bathrooms and then read on-line that they were a common remedy for sun burns. After dousing a wash cloth in the salty mixture, as suggested, I began rubbing it on the affected areas.

And then the itching started. I don't know if it was coincidence, an allergic reaction or bad espom salts but I was borderline miserable for about 30 minutes. We tried milk and oatmeal, which felt a bit ridiculous but kind of worked. The thing that seemed to help the most, though, was the hot tub followed by vinegar.

At any rate, the hazards of Paradise were abated, and we set out for our afternoon retreat. Dan had a 2-hour Thai massage booked with his usual therapist and I had a 90-minute lomi lomi massage with a therapist I had not yet worked with before. He was 30 minutes late, very apologetic, and was able to give me a thorough 60-minute massage and a refund for the extra 30 minutes. Kalani is a retreat center set on acres of lush grounds, and centers on all things holistic: massage, watsu, yoga, energy flow, and togetherness. Several weeks out of the year groups come in and stay for a week - whether they be yoga retreats, female or male bonding, or even a week of hula.

They also have a very nice pool, which I enjoyed while Dan was finshing up. To my surprise, his therapist offered to work with me to make up for my lost time. So indeed I ended up with the 30 minutes after all - and it was perfect because I got to experience two very different types of massage in one day. Thai massage is all about stretching and pressure points. You lay right on the ground with a pillow, and there are much less lotions involved. I liked. Very much. It helped my neck and shoulders quite a bit in just thirty minutes.

With our bodies humming, and the rain returning, we headed into Pahoa for some groceries. Dan made sushi for us, and we enjoyed watching the rain fall through the windows. The weather has been very erratic here, but fortunately the mornings and afternoons have been sunny and pleasant. And when it rains, it usually doesn't last longer than 15 minutes or so.

The past two trips we've made were both 10 nights so this is the point at which we'd be packing up and dreaming about the next one. This time, though, we are only halfway through! While the 3-week vacation involves much planning, careful choices and steady saving, it is hightly recommended. We may not get to be away for this long ever year, but we certainly are enjoying it. The pace of this adventure is wonderful!

Hawai`i 2009: Day 9

2009-06-21T19:30:00.000-07:00

After a bit too much sun yesterday, we both were a little too pink for much exposure today (and wanted to play it safe for our massages tomorrow).

We did begin the day with some snorkeling at the Kapoho Tide Pools down the street. We visited the tide pools back in October 2007 when we stayed near Kehena Beach. Now we can walk, which is much better for snorkeling as we don't have to worry about what to do with our wallets/keys/etc.

The tide pools are protected and mostly very clear, full of coral and fish, making them a snorkeler's paradise. We kept our shirts on to avoid further sun burns, and scooted around. DanG is an excellent snorkeler, very comfortable navigating amongst the rocks, coral, shallow and deep ends of the waters. I, on the other hand, struggle a bit and have to work up my courage to fully explore. I get a strange vertigo sensation when I'm floating above coral that feels so close to my legs, and then my breathing becomes shallow. I do love the experience once I can relax into it, and when I can't I enjoy exploring from the sidelines.

With a little adventure under our belts, it was time to turn our attention toward food. We had heard wonderful things about the Sunday Pahoa Farmer's Market. In fact, it's more of a street fair. In addition to the usual fruits and vegetables you would find at any farmer's market, there are vendors selling crafts, live music, t-shirts, used books, DVDs, plants -- and a spectacular food court. We went with the crepes, which DanG will rave about (yum!).

Beyond a terrific spot to buy and eat local food, the Pahoa Farmer's Market felt like a gathering place for all Puna residents (who seem to come from all walks of life).

After hitting Malama Market again for some more groceries (yep, still insanely crowded on a Sunday afternoon), it was time for some reading and rest back at the house. The clear skies and beaming sun teased us, but we held out to enjoy the next couple weeks more. Dan baked some poha berry muffins, we watched the Travel channel, read about the Big Island and ate some good food. And lots of Aloe.

We also enjoyed watching the birds, like this mother and baby.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 8

2009-06-20T21:03:00.000-07:00

Today we enjoyed many of those vacation moments you dream about when it's 50 degrees, pouring down rain and you are buried in work at your office work station.

I woke at 7:30, made a fresh pot of 100% Kona coffee (simply the best tasting coffee in the world) and enjoyed several cups out on a lounge chair -- soaking up the morning sun and watching lizards climb trees.

Before breakfast, I indulged in some hot tubbing. Later, we read our books outside, stopping once for the rain and then returning when the sun returned. We enjoyed the lagoon, more hot tubbing, a late lunch and a nap.

I took my first run in the neighborhood, and the terrain is nice and flat. And the people are friendly. Being in PNW mode, I often look down or away when approaching others. Bur here people make eye contact, smile and say aloha.

Lagoon Shangrila (the name of the house) is working out very well for us. I set up my clothes and yoga mat in one of the spare bedrooms. The internet connection is fast, and last night we realized we're only about 10 minutes away from Pahoa town. We drove in for dinner at one of our favorite Mexican restaurants - Luquin's. We then walked around town to better acquaint ourselves, stopping at Cash & Carry and then Island Naturals for a few essentials.

In the past, I'd been a bit spooked by Pahoa as there seemed to be a dark element to it. In fact, many people consider it to be the perfect hiding place for FBI fugitives. Maybe it's changed, or maybe I've changed. Last night I just saw a bustling quaint town on a Saturday night with just enough options for food, drink, shops and culture.

And even a cat on a hot (wood?) roof!

Hawai`i 2009: Day 7

2009-06-19T20:30:00.000-07:00

This morning we bid adieu to the Falls. We took our last rain forest showers, took our last gazes into the rivers and took pictures of the beautiful house and grounds. Indeed, a special place and we treasured our three glorious nights there.

I will miss this view when taking my morning shower.

As check-out was 11am and check-in at our next destination not until 3pm, we had time for a few more Hilo hot spots before the drive to Puna. First we drove toward the University of Hawai`i-Hilo campus, the only major University on the Big Island. It seemed, though, that a parking permit was required so we just cruised through in our rental car before circling back to the `Imiloa Astronomy Center.

`Imiloa sits just above the UHH campus, a lovely and peaceful setting for this state-of-the-art facility. Part Hawaiian cultural museum, part Astronomy learning center, `Imiloa strives to bring science and technology to the forefront of the Hawaiian experience while spreading awareness and celebration of the Hawaiian way of life.

We watched a cool movie about Mauna Kea in the planetarium.

Mauna Kea, the largest mountain in the world when measured from the bottom of the sea, has inspired this dual-learning approach as it has become the leading location for viewing and understanding the cosmos. Housing the most powerful telescopes in the world, Mauna Kea allows scientists the opportunity to better understand the Universe, its creation and what is happening next in our ever-changing solar system. The telescopes have been met with much controversy, as they sit on precious Hawaiian soil. Thus, the delicate balance of scientific discovery and cultural reverence serves to make both sides content.

For lunch, we headed to Hilo's beloved Ken's House of Pancakes -- for an old fashioned plate lunch.

From there we headed to Big Island Candies. We used them last year for our wedding favors (their famous shortbread cookies dipped in homemade chocolate and beautifully packaged in tiny boxes for our guests). We didn't have much time then to explore, though, so this time we took our time and picked up some souvenirs (and snacks) and watched the workers on the assembly line. It is a dangerous place if you have a sweet tooth, but they are now offering some sugar free options and they also sell a few non-chocolate items such as wasabi and vanilla extract.

From there we headed toward old Pahoa town and picked up some groceries at the Malama Market. It was 3pm on a Friday, and the grocery store was buzzing. I'm not sure if it can be attributed to low employment or a non-conventional work week, but it seemed the weekend had already begun in Pahoa!

As we neared our vacation rental, I began to get a bit nervous as I always do when we first approach these places we find on the inernet. So far, using VRBO we've been able to find some amazing homes in Moloka`i and Pahoa (2007).

And we have another hit, which is really great since we'll be hear for the next two weeks. The house features a lagoon in the front yard with koi, tilapia and other fish - and we are allowed to swim in it! The yard also boasts a huge grill, hot tub, a dining area and enough tiki torches to have our own lu`au.

Today marked the end of our first week here in Hawai`i and also was the last day of our more structured itinerary. We tend to be laid back travelers, not planning much, and just doing what we feel like on the fly. However, because we were taking such a long trip we decided to make the first week a bit more planned so that we wouldn't put off doing things until the final week. It worked out well for us, and helped us slowly melt into vacation mode without the immediate whiplash feeling of "Now what do I do with my time?" We're also about 30 minutes away from Hilo now so seeing those sites will not be as convenient. There is still plenty left on our mental to-do list, but we now take things one day at a time, or even one second at a time.

In Celebration of The Falls at Reeds Island

2009-06-19T08:00:00.000-07:00

Looking out into the jungle that surrounds The Falls, I feel engulfed in a sea of green.

As my eyes focus and scan the coconut palms and ferns and monstera, I notice just how many shades of green exist here - from deep, bluish tones to almost yellow.

And I begin to see the yellows and browns - places where green once was, now aged, some fallen to the ground or dangling from a branch, some falling violently to the earth.

I notice the green is punctuated with the reds of bromeliads and lehua blossoms, yellow, white and purple flowers, and the orange of lilikoi fruit ripening.

I see yellow birds playing tag with red cardinals, dashing through the air in search of food, and I see the proud rooster strutting through the yard, all bright feathers, loud crow, and cocky attitude.

My focus shifts to the darkness behind the colors, the volcanic rock supporting everything, providing a shadowy backdrop for the bright, living colors.

And on the rocks I notice more dashes of color - a scurrying gecko, a bright green anole basking in the sun, slowly changing to grey to disappear, a dragonfly resting for a moment before taking to flight again, a striped skink rustling under a leaf.

I see the grey lichen growing in the crevices of the rocks, giving tiny plants a foothold, so they too will someday grow to enormous sizes, replacing the fallen leaves, and making this place more green.

Watching all this around me, I'm reminded why we chose this place for our wedding, and why there was no question that we would return a year later to spend our first anniversary here. This place is the definition of the Hawaiian word uluwehiwehi - lush, beautiful, alive, and green.

We are so grateful to David Morton and Thomas Cordell for imagining this magical place and making it a reality, and to Jack & Jane, for again sharing their unrivaled hospitality, aloha, and home with us.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 6

2009-06-18T21:07:00.000-07:00

Today was our last full day in Hilo so we decided to spend most of it in downtown. We started with the Pacific Tsunami Museum. Its friendly staff gave us a quick introduction to the museum and a brief history of Hilo's enduring struggle with the tsunami. Twice ravaged by powerful tsunamis in 1946 and 1960, Hilo has become an epicenter for tsunami awareness and evacuation training. After the 1960 devastation, the main drag of town was moved back away from the waterfront and it is now illegal to build that close to the bay.

In addition to the two big tsunamis, Hilo has endured several smaller scale ones and most people in town seem to think it's only a matter of time before the next big one. The museum tour features a movie with personal accounts of the great tragedies of 1946 and 1960 as well as interactive science exhibits, photographs, videos and a gift shop. We bought another shot glass to add to our collection

For lunch we headed up Kilauea Ave to the famed Cafe 100, and then drove back downtown to check out the Mokupapapa Discover Center. The Center serves as an educational center for the natural science, culture and history of the Northwest Hawaiian Islands. These are the isles, shoals and atolls north of Kaua`i and are homes to some of the rarest ecosystems on Earth.

Unfortunately, even these uninhabited (by humans) islands are not immune to pollution. This picture is taken of a beach littered by human trash that had washed up from the ocean.

The center is free to the public and features a large aquarium with a unicorn fish.

DanG needed some sunglasses and new aloha shirts so we headed down Kamehameha Ave to do some shopping. We found some scores along the way, including a new tree ornament and a book on the history of the Big Island as well as the shirts and sunglasses.

Despite being full from the loco moco lunch, we had to make a stop at Two Ladies Kitchen. Their strawberry mochi is legendary. Dan knows more about the food stuff, but this is worth a special shout-out. In fact, it may rank in the top 5 bites in my entire life! Don't let the unassuming store front fool you.

There is so much to do and see in Hilo. It's our third trip here and we're still leaving things behind for future vacations. Since we'll be staying just 30 minutes out of town for the remainder of our stay, we hope to get back a few times.

As the afternoon drifted on, we stopped at Sack-n-Save for some items we needed to pull dinner together. DanG has been enjoying cooking with the local island ingredients and I get to reap the rewards!

Tonight was our last night at the Falls. We did some yoga, relaxed and watched the weather turn constantly from rain to low hanging clouds to bright blue sky. You never know what to expect from the weather in East Hawai`i. Maybe that's why we feel so comfortable here - it's just like home.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 5

2009-06-17T21:00:00.000-07:00

Today was marked by a busy morning and blissfully lazy afternoon. After fueling myself with 100% Kona Coffee, we drove downtown and made our triumphant return to the Lyman Museum. We first discovered the museum during our October 2007 trip, but only had time for the Mission House tour and the main floor exhibits. The friendly staff encouraged us to come back, and wrote us out a "rain check" as we were leaving that never expired. We hoped to return last June, but we were just too busy with the wedding, and this year we realized we misplaced the rain check.

Once again we were short on time, but we did get to see "Grandfather's House," a re-creation of a rural Korean home during the 1930s as well as a brand new exhibit featuring salvaged photographs capturing life in the Kingdom of Hawai`i from 1883-1905. And, since this time we were also on a timeline, the staff graciously wrote us out another rain check!

From the Lyman Museum, it is just a few blocks to the Palace Theater, where we ventured next for the weekly morning live theater show called "Hawaiiana Live!" Now in its third year, the show is hosted by cultural practitioner and local wahine Leilehua Yuen. It is a delightful 45-minutes of organ playing, history, music, hula, video and aloha. Before introducing Leilehua, the organ player gave us a concise history of the theater. It was built in 1925 and has weathered two tsunamis! We were hoping to experience some more Big Island local culture on this trip, and this was a terrific start.

After a lunch of Mexican food at Reuben's, we walked next door to the Hilo Farmer's Market. The market is one of the most talked about in the world, and at the forefront of the local food movement. It takes place in all its glory every Wednesday and Saturday, while some of the vendors stick around throughout the week. We were struck by how inexpensive the fruit was, but perhaps we are just used to the idea of anything so exotic as an avocado costing us an arm and a leg back in Seattle.

We had one more stop before heading back to the house: Suisan Fish market. It is a Hilo institution, and located near the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel (where many of our guests stayed last year).

With such an industrious morning behind us, we took advantage of our open afternoon by lounging, napping, reading, taking pictures and enjoying the natural beauty around us.

Later, it rained for the first time. From what we hear, Hilo needed it.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 4

2009-06-16T21:30:00.000-07:00

We awoke early today, and quickly pulled together our suitcases for the mid-morning flight to Hilo. We had some time so we took one last walk on Waikiki Beach, savoring the salty morning air.

An odd thing about Waikiki: limousines everywhere. We were confused by this until we hailed our taxi to the airport. Yep, a limousine! My first time ever riding in one, actually. The cost was the same as a regular taxi.

Check-in was smooth at HNL so we had plenty of time to walk around. The interisland flight to Hilo took about 40 minutes, landing in ITO around 11:25am. Immediately, we felt a bit more relaxed being back on the Big Island. After figuring out the rental car (and almost being confused into paying for insurance we didn't need), we were off to downtown for some lunch at Cronie's - a place we discovered last year.

Because we could not check into The Falls until 3pm, we puttered around the Hilo shops for a few hours, adding some items to our mental wish lists at Basically Books (one of the finest book stores around, with exceptional customer service).

Finally, we hit the local Sack-n-Save for some groceries and drove up to Reed's Island for our reunion with Paradise. While our anniversary was yesterday, we decided to wait to observe/celebrate it today while in our favorite spot. The owners are gifted hosts. Not only is the house impeccably clean upon arrival, there are fresh tropical bouquets on each table, gifts of coffee, cookies and mac nuts laid out on the kitchen table and Hawaiian music already playing on the CD player. All the memories of our wedding here last year came rushing back. We just couldn't stop smiling.

For our anniversary dinner, we returned to Cafe Pesto, where we held our rehearsal dinner last year. Following an amazing meal that Dan will write about in fine detail, we walked home. As a side note, walking in the dark in the tropics is kind of spooky.

DanG surpised me by tracking down the baker who made our wedding cake last year and having her re-create the top. We did not have to miss out on that tradition, which was wonderful.

More adventure awaits us on the Big Island!

Hawai`i 2009: Day 3

2009-06-15T21:00:00.000-07:00

We had two agenda items for our last day in Waikiki: The Aquarium and Diamond Head. The latter proved more challenging to scratch off the list.

The Waikiki Aquarium is about a ten-minute walk from our hotel. DanG was there more than thirty years ago with his family, and wanted to see if a re-visit would trigger any memories. The museum is affiliated with the University of Hawai`i and serves as an educational tool for the preservation of native species and healthy ecosystems.

We were given audio wands when we checked in that provided in-depth information about the various exhibits. We learned about coral, sharks, reef habitats, fresh water habitats, monk seals, giant clams and more. There was a group of kids on a field trip so the energy was sky-high!

From there it was (we thought) a quick walk to the entrance of Diamond Head National Park. We bought a flashlight at an aptly named "Diamond Head Grocery" and were on our way. However, as we walked and walked and walked we realized we were not getting any closer to an entrance. And there was no signage. So we started walking the other way. And we walked and walked and walked. It was hot today, around 90 degrees plus humidity. Determination prevailed, though, as we spotted a sign just as were ready to push the hike to "Next time" status.

The hike is short - less than one mile - but fairly steep in parts. There were many people to share the trail with as well. Water is recommended, though the flashlight that is suggested in all the guidebooks is not necessary. The tunnel portion of the hike is brief and lit well enough to pass through without additional light (which is good because by the time we reached Diamond Head the $6 flashlight we bought was already toast!).

The view at the top is gorgeous, and we are glad we muscled our way through the experience of finding the park's entrance. As a reward (and thirst quencher) we each got a lilikoi shave ice from the truck parked at the beginning of the trail.

As luck would have it, we ended up sharing a cab back to Kapiolani Park (costing us only $3 each) and then hit a favorite spot of ours in Kona called Lulu's (we didn't even know it was a chain).

After completing all our action items for Waikiki, we decided to rest on our final night. It was a little bit of TV, room service and deep slumber. Three nights in Honolulu seemed perfect for us, and it has been a pleasant way to break up our travel. There is still much to see in this bustling island, such as Washington Place, the Honolulu Art Museum, the Polynesian Cultural Center and the famed North Shore.

But for now we bit adieu as tomorrow we return to our favorite little town of Hilo.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 2

2009-06-14T22:06:00.000-07:00

We started our second day in Waikiki with breakfast at our hotel's 24-hour restaurant, simply called Mac 24/7. We then ventured out once again to catch TheBus to Bishop Museum, one of the main reasons we wanted to spend some time in Honolulu.

It is about a 45-minute bus ride from Waikiki, and spans 5 major buildings. Unfortunately, the Hawaiian Hall is still under construction. We began with the Polynesian Hall, an exhibit representing the various Pacific cultures across Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia.

We then walked across the Great Lawn to the Richard Mamiya Science Adventure Center, and had fun with a series of interactive exhibits that taught us all about volcanoes, biodiversity and waves. Finally, we toured the current touring installation in the Castle Memorial Building - a display called Backyard Monsters: The World of Insects. The kids at the museum had a ball with the giant-sized moving robotic insects, and it was fun for DanG to brush up on his entomology. Upstairs is a small display of the museum's early collections.

The museum is epic and impossible to do justice to in one day. We'll have to go back when the Hawaiian Hall re-opens. In addition, there are daily movies, workshops and lectures to augment one's learning experience. It is an impressive and well-run facility.

After reading so much about the "Pink Palace," we just had to check out the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. It recently re-opened after 7 months of remodeling. Many consider it the jewel of Waikiki, and it definitely has an air of nobility to it. We found our way to the Royal Mai Tai bar and had one of their famous concoctions while looking out at the sea of bodies on the beach.

Finished with our touristy activities for the day, we melted a bit into vacation mode with some time by the pool and later I used the hotel's fitness center.

We were both craving sushi so we used the hotel's business center to find the closest options, and then headed to Hula's for a pre-dinner drink. Hula's is a gay bar in Waikiki that many people have recommended to us for its friendly vibe and superb location in the shadow of Diamond Head.

From there it was sushi at Sansei and then a post-dinner walk on Waikiki Beach. Waikiki is unlike any of our other Hawaiian adventures. In many ways, it reminds us of Los Angeles. Yet it has its own distinct flavor (and much more beauty). Like Los Angeles, though, there seem to be many drifters, transplants and physical fitness gurus.

Our hotel is famous for its "killer cupcakes" so we decided to get a couple to take up to the room. We both opted for the Chocolate Peanut buttercup. The cashier asked us if we wanted utensils, as the cupcakes were "pretty big." Indeed.

Hawai`i 2009: Day 1

2009-06-13T21:28:00.000-07:00

Our flight this morning was at 8:05, an hour earlier than we normally fly out from Seattle. So we awoke at 4:30am, finished packing and called a taxi to arrive at 6:00. It was a pleasant morning in Seattle, and the cab driver got us to Sea-Tac in about twenty minutes. Then came the long wait for boarding pass and baggage check. Hawaiian Airlines has a new baggage policy: $15 for ALL checked bags. This means people have to quickly get out a debit or credit card and the customer service specialist must take extra time to swipe the card and print the statement. Something to be aware of next time you fly Hawaiian - get there early!

We were fine, and as always, Hawaiian beat its expected time and got us to Honolulu just before 11am local time. Very little turbulence along the way.

After grabbing our bags and hailing a cab, we were off to the hotel which ended up being nicer than it looked on the internet.

We even got upgraded to a slightly nicer corner room when we asked for one King instead of two Queens. The hotel had a nice pool area on the 10th floor, where we sat and had our first mai tai in the islands.

View from our room:

Then we tredged on exploring by walking up to `Iolani Palace for the audio self-guided tour. It is the only royal palace on US Soil. It was designed by King David Kalakaua in the 1880s, the most extravagant of the Hawaiian monarchs. It was his passion to put the Kingdom of Hawai`i on the map as a nation of prestige, sophistication and pride. The interior has been restored, and parts of the palace are roped off for preservation purposes. It is a stunning site. Perhaps the most powerful room is also the most solemn: the upstairs bedroom where Queen Liliu`okalani was imprisoned by the American businessman who overthrew the Hawaiian Government and de-throned her in 1893.

The walk there was a little long, especially in 88 degree weather, so we opted for taking TheBus back to our hotel. TheBus is $2 per person and seems to run all the time -- and it has air conditioning!

Once we were back in the Waikiki area, it was dinner at Cheeseburger Waikiki followed by an early slumber as we acclimated to the time difference.

Hawai`i Trip 2009

2009-06-13T05:41:00.000-07:00

We've been very quiet, but only because we've been so busy planning this year's trip to Oahu and the Big Island. In just a few short hours, we get on a plane headed to Honolulu!

We'll be posting about our 3-week adventures here, as we explore Waikiki for the first time, re-connect with Hilo to celebrate our one-year wedding anniversary and then go exploring/relax in Kapoho.

Today's agenda includes lunch in Waikiki, a tour of `Iolani Palace and perhaps a drink near the beach at sunset. Of course, as soon as the plane lands and we step out into that velvety air...it's island time.

Aloha!

Wing Luke Museum's Hawaiian Exhibit

2009-04-19T04:19:00.000-07:00

The Wing Luke Museum, in Seattle's International District, has an exhibit going on through August 16th called "Ho'omau Ka Huaka'i, The Voyage Continues: Native Hawai'ians in the Pacific Northwest", about the connections between Hawai`i and the Pacific Northwest.

Thanks to items on loan from folks here in Seattle, the exhibit features a wonderful array of traditional and modern items that represent a rich history of Hawaiians moving here the PNW and bringing their culture, and reminders of home, with them.

We definitely recommend stopping in and checking it out. It's interactive, multi-media, and a great way to spend the afternoon. The rest of the museum is also worth checking out, if you have the time.

The Wing Luke Museum is at 719 South King Street, one block South of Jackson in the ID.

Merrie Monarch Medal from 1967

2009-02-28T22:03:00.000-08:00

When Ruth & Paul came to pick us up for our double-date, Paul brought along a wonderful gift for us.

It's a Bronze Medal from the 1967 Merrie Monarch Festival, held annually in Hilo, Hawai`i (where we got married) to commemorate King Kalakaua, the last King (though not last Monarch) of Hawai`i.

Kalakaua was referred to as the 'Merrie Monarch' because of the lavish parties the threw, his patronage of the arts, and because of all he did to restore traditional Hawaiian cultural traditions (including the hula) to the islands, after Christian missionaries had all but eradicated them.

The main competitions that occur at the Merrie Monarch festival are hula, with hula halau's from all over the state (and even from the mainland) converging on Hilo to celebrate and help perpetuate Hawaiian culture together. So it's likely this medal was awarded to someone for their exceptional hula back in 1967 - perhaps a halau here in Seattle? You can check out some photos, video, and commentary from 2009's Merrie Monarch Festival over at one of Dan's favorite blogs - Hilo Living.

One interesting note is the spelling of 'Merry', not 'Merrie', on the medal. Perhaps the naming has changed through the years, or perhaps it was a typo? It's definitely spelled 'Merrie' these days, as the official Merrie Monarch Festival attests.

Hawaiian Trip & Food

2009-01-25T13:58:00.000-08:00

It snowed again here on Beacon Hill. It's not sticking, but it sure does make me look forward to our three week long trip to the islands this June to celebrate our 1st Anniversary. We're going to revisit some of the places in Honolulu I saw as a child and many new places, and then we're going to return to the house in Hilo we were married in last June for a few days, then spend the remaining two weeks in a vacation home down near the Kapoho tidepools, on the South-East corner of the Big Island. I can't wait! It feels good on these cold Seattle winter days to think ahead to flip-flops and shorts, snorkeling, Mai tais, and getting to cook with amazing fresh produce and fish.

In the meantime, we'll be cooking up plenty of Hawaiian food here at home. Check out past posts tagged with 'Hawaiian' on my food blog for everything from very traditional fish & poi, fun recipes like mai tai cupcakes, and my recent post on our Sunday dinner of ahi katsu & coconut shrimp.

Book Review: Moloka`i

2008-12-27T15:00:00.000-08:00

I mentioned in my review of Honolulu that I had been reading Alan Brennert's previous historical novel, Moloka`i. I finished it about a week ago, but have been distracted by the inclement weather here in Seattle as well as the usual holiday craziness.

Published in 2004, Moloka`i tells the story of a girl named Rachel who is diagnosed with Hansen's disease (then referred to as "leprosy") at age seven and send away to Kalaupapa, a peninsula-colony on the island of Moloka`i for quarantined patients and their caretakers.

As he did in Honolulu, Brennert quickly creates vivid back stories for each of the characters while staying closely connected to the psychology of Rachel. The novel spans decades, as Rachel grows to be a teen, a young woman, a wife, and even briefly a mother in a bittersweet chapter of her life. Being one of the settlement's healthier patients, Rachel outlives almost all those who become her family. This provided her with an oppressive amount of time to reflect. As her father was a seamen, Rachel held on to the constant dream of exploring the world -- the world outside Hansen's disease.

I found Moloka`i to be more painful to read at times, as its elegiac subject matter resonated emotions within, ranging from pure melancholy to utter rage at the injustices of the situation. Ultimately, I was a bit more affected emotionally by the story though I found Honolulu a bit more hopeful and inspiring.

In both cases, Brennert shows a clear talent for understanding women and their desires. Both his heroines were at once strong, struggling, unsure and nothing shy of human. Brennert also underlines certain themes in both novels, including ideas of entrapment, injustice and deferred gratification in the eye of mammoth obstacles.

I highly recommend reading both novels. This one brought me back to my own time on the ethereal island of Moloka`i. We were there just one week back in 2006, but it definitely struck me as having mana like no other place on Earth. With that comes a deep linger....

Book Review: Honolulu

2008-12-04T14:03:00.000-08:00

I recently had the privilege of reading an advanced copy of Alan Brennert's new historical novel, simply titled Honolulu. It is the follow-up to Brennert's Moloka`i, his first foray into Hawaiian historical fiction (I am reading this right now, and will eventually post a review of it, too).

Honolulu is a harrowing tale of overcoming one's destiny, thwarting convention and ultimately living out the dream that is at once American and Hawaiian. It is the story of Jin, a once shunned Korean girl named "Regret" by her parents for not being a boy and destined to a life decided on her behalf. She would wed a man chosen by her family, become a wife and mother, and never learn to read or leave her quarters of the house.

But Jin had other ideas. As a young girl at the turn of the century, she found a piece of a book that had blown into her yard. She made her brother read it, and she began teaching herself how to read. Constantly longing for an education and life of purpose, Jin one day learned of a place called Hawai`i, where everything was beautiful and the streets "paved with gold." She and her best friend began flirting with the notion of becoming picture brides. It was their only ticket out of Korea, to a new life. While her family frowned upon her idea and her father shunned her for learning how to read, Jin simply could not stay trapped.

Of course, Jin's journey would not be so simple as an immediate marriage into the American dream. She and the other picture brides would quickly discover that the handsome and ostensibly prosperous men who chose them were much older than their pictures would illustrate, and most were plantation workers. Worst, though, was Jin's husband's appetite for violence. After fleeing her doomed destiny in Korea, had she traveled all this way only to find a lot much more devastating?

From here, the novel finds its strongest footing, and assuredly moves through Jin's inspiring decisions that define her future, and her life. Along the way she befriends prostitutes, gets cozy with police officers, becomes an enterprising seamstress, and finds true love and fortune in a land that becomes intertwined with her new identity. One particular part of Jin's story I found moving involved her confronting her own prejudice against the Japanese, who had ripped her native country from her people. During the Depression, she befriends a Japanese woman and tentatively begins to help her, despite her own misgivings. It is a slow process, but over time, Jin comes to her own realization that it is no longer about Korea or Japan...they are all Hawaiians now.

Not without tragedy, Honolulu is a fundamental testament to the possibility of creating your own life by never extinguishing that fire crackling with dreams, determination, and resiliency.

At the end of her story, Jin reflects on her new home: "Hawai`i has often been called a melting pot, but I think of it more as a "mixed plate" -- a scoop of rice with gravy, a scoop of macaroni salad, a piece of mahi-mahi, and a side of kimchi. Many different tastes share the plate, but none of them loses its individual flavor, and together they make up a uniquely "local" cuisine. This is also, I believe, what America is at its best -- a whole great than the sum of its parts."

Jin reunites with the other picture brides in Honolulu, and they begin meeting on a regular basis, and eventually form a kye. A kye is essentially a pot of money that each member contributes to, and periodically requests to draw from it. Everyone votes, and decides if this is a reasonable use of the funds. From these funds, each of the women is able to lead a better life. Businesses are started. Real estate is purchased. Jin leaves behind her family in Korea, and with it much of the old ways. In Hawai`i, though, she makes her own family and has experiences one could only have in those great Pacific islands.

In times of unprecedented uncertainty in the world, I cannot convey enough the value in reading this novel. Jin found that in Hawai`i the roads were not paved with gold, and life would not be without major obstacles. Yet, she found a way to survive and in the end, made her own version of Paradise. The idea of 'Paradise as Possibility' should resonate with anyone still feeding that crackling fire.

Big Island-Big Island

2008-12-04T11:40:00.000-08:00

We have come across yet another Big Island resource!

The site "Big Island-BigIsland" is quite impressive, with a daily-updated blog, information on sovereignty, accommodations, restaurants, politics and island life in general.

Check it out!

Healthy Hawai`i

2008-12-04T11:37:00.000-08:00

According to the 19th Annual State rankings put together by various groups, Hawai`i is the second healthiest state in the Union. With the availability of fresh seafood and produce, and wide range of outdoor activities, we are far from surprised. Maika`i!

The full article is here.

2008 Winter Pineapple Classic

2008-11-18T08:15:00.001-08:00

We first posted about this on October 5th.

This past Sunday we ran in the Pineapple Winter Classic, a 5K run with obstacles in Seattle's Magnuson Park that raises money for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society. What separates this from just any other run for charity? People dress up in Hawaiian-themed costumes! We saw face-painted warriors, hula girls and plenty of hibiscus-inspired teamware.

Our team name was "Mele Kalikimaka," (Merry Christmas in Hawaiian) and we wore bright red shirts with our team name and Santa hats.

Some of the obstacles proved to be quite challenging, including ducking down into barrels, scaling walls and the mighty monkey bars that proved to require intense upper body strength.

According to the WPC website, turnout doubled from last year. We had a blast, and when times got tough we'd just remind ourselves of the luau and beer garden near the finish line.

Our friends Jerry and Warren greeted us as we made our way to the final leg, and we all enjoyed a refreshing brew in the beer garden. An entire hangar had been convereted to a luau setting, complete with real sand, a volleyball net and a stage where entertainers performed traditional Hawaiian music. Our friend Gary Medeiros was one of them!

Because of our late start-time (12:40), there wasn't much in the way of food left by the time we hit the buffet line. However, we were able to scarf down some noodles and salad before hoofing it back to our car.

The weather was gorgeous, making the run all the more enjoyable. Running with family for a great cause, with the rewards of Hawaiian culture? Not too many better ways to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Aloha!

Music & Food in Georgetown

2008-11-02T15:11:00.001-08:00

Last Saturday we ventured down to the Georgetown neighborhood, to the Kaua`i Family Restaurant. Our friend Gary Medeiros was performing with Auntie Manu from 11am-2pm. We stopped in after running some Saturday morning errands for some `ono breakfast and mele.

Gary plays the ukulele and sings the male falsetto. He is quite good! He and Auntie Manu make a great team, and we found out they will both be performing at the luau celebration after the Pineapple Classic Run we're doing on November 16th at Magnuson Park. And the Kaua`i Family Restaurant is catering. What a preview!

I had the standard Hawaiian breakfast (eggs with rice and Portuguese sausage) while Dan went for the loco moco w/ spam. We were both pleased with the low-priced and hearty plates, but the star of the meal had to be the bag of malasadas we snagged right as we ordered. Malasadas are a Portuguese donut - basically like a donut but 100 times better! The restaurant only serves them on the weekends and they sell out quickly. In fact, we saw many folks just coming in to order a bag of them to go. We took the rest home and ate them the next day.

The performance was lively, as the two sang many Hawaiian favorites including Iz's "Somewhere Over the Rainbow." At times some of the patrons got up and performed an impromptu hula. It was fun to watch.

It turns out Gary and his partner are part of a halau with Auntie Manu that meets on Sundays, informally, so we are going to try our hands - er - waists at hula soon!

We unfortunately forgot the camera.

Tomorrow night we are headed to the Open House/sneak preview of the holiday line at the Hawai`i General Store and will hopefully remember to snap some pics to share.

Big Island Video News

2008-11-02T15:09:00.001-08:00

There is a new site featuring video news from the Big Island. Check it out! Another great resource from the folks on Hawai`i Island!

Big Island Video News

New Editor for BI Weekly

2008-10-17T11:01:00.000-07:00

Last week it was reported that Kristine Kubat, founding editor at Big Island Weekly, was resigning after 23 months at the helm.

One week later, a replacement is announced. It will be interesting to see which direction the paper takes!

From this week's issue:

Stockton named Big Island Weekly editor/GM
By Staff Report
Thursday, October 16, 2008 10:09 AM HST
Jed Stockton, a veteran journalist who has worked the past five years at the Hawaii Tribune-Herald, is Big Island Weekly's new editor and general manager, replacing founding editor Kristine Kubat.

Stockton starts Nov. 13.

"Jed knows his way around a newspaper, and he understands the fundamental mission of Big Island Weekly," Publisher Geoff Schumacher said. "I am confident Jed will preserve the best of what Big Island Weekly has done so far while introducing new elements to the mix."

Stockton started working in the journalism field in 1993 at the Denison Herald in Denison, Texas. Later that year, he moved to a larger newspaper south of Denison called the Sherman Democrat in Sherman, Texas. In Sherman, he worked as a reporter, editor, photographer and designer.

In 1998, Stockton took a job as the health editor/features editor with the Connecticut Post in Bridgeport, Conn. He moved to the Dallas Morning News as a business copy editor and designer in 2001.

In November 2003, he became a copy editor and designer at the Hawaii Tribune-Herald.

"Big Island Weekly will continue to be a publication where island voices are heard," Stockton said. "Every issue of this publication will have something new, interesting and informative. Community input is essential and I can't wait to meet everyone and hear what folks have to say. Big Island Weekly will continue reporting on the issues that matter to Big Island residents. My door is always open."

Kubat resigned last week after two years at the helm. Schumacher is serving as interim editor until Stockton takes over.

"Rest assured, Big Island Weekly will continue to exemplify the objectives of an alternative newsweekly," Schumacher said. "I believe Stockton is committed to afflicting the comfortable and questioning the conventional wisdom, as well as delivering the best arts and entertainment coverage on the island."

Big Island Weekly and the Hawaii Tribune-Herald are both owned by Stephens Media LLC, based in Las Vegas.

High Surf in Kaua`i Ends in Tragedy

2008-10-13T18:15:00.001-07:00

Apparently three tourists have died on Kaua`i because of the recent high surf.

Pineapple Classic

2008-10-05T13:29:00.000-07:00

At a costume party earlier this year, we heard about an annual 5K race where people dress up in Hawaiian-inspired costumes and navigate an obstacle course. We were sold!

It turns out the Winter Pineapple Classic is just in its third year, as it began in 2006, guided by the vision and kokua of Eric Cox. Eric's son Brody was diagnosed with leukemia shortly after his 2nd birthday, while Eric's wife was undergoing chemotherapy treatment for breast cancer. Both have endured a tumultuous battle with the deadly and debilitating disease, but are now in remission and hoping for healthy futures.

In just two years, the event has raised $280,000 for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society. This year the goal is to add another $250K to the worthy cause.

We'll be joined by two of my sisters for a team entry. If entered by Nov 3rd, registration for a 4-party team is just $43.75 per person. Additional fundraising is encouraged, but not mandatory to participate. The event takes place November 16th, and is followed by a luau complete with performances and a beer garden!

More information can be found at the web site linked to above.

Big Island Quarterly

2008-10-04T12:54:00.000-07:00

Check out the very first issue of Big Island Quarterly, a new on-line magazine all about the Big Island!

Speaking of which, we recently booked lodging on the Big Island for next June/July. Can't wait! We'll be staying 3 nights at the house we were married at in Hilo, and then moving to a lesser expensive, but still gorgeous-looking house in the Kapoho area of Puna for 15 nights.

Still need to work out our first 3 nights in Hololulu. Looking at a cheap hotel within walking distance of the sights we are interested in (Bishop Museum, Zoo, `Iolani Palace, etc).

Now that the Seattle rainy season is officially underway, having a trip on the books is a beacon of light!

10 Years for Hawai`i General Store

2008-09-19T13:12:00.000-07:00

At the Live Aloha! Festival, we were invited by our friend and lei-making instructor to the Hawai`i General Store's 10th Anniversary Party. Wow, 10 years of bringing aloha to the Pacific Northwest.

Festivities began at 8:00am with eggs, rice, portugese sausace, coffee and juice. Also recording live was the Hawai`i Radio Connection. They interviewed owner Gail Stringer on the origins of her sweet little shop, and how it all came to be. The short of it is that one day Gail wanted to buy a friend a lei to cheer her up. She looked and looked, and realized a fresh lei in Seattle was none to be had. So soon after the store opened, and realizing she needed to sell more than leis it became what it is today: gallery, music emporium, travel agency, party pitstop, crackseed corner and of course THE PLACE for leis in Seattle.

In these tough economic times, it feels all the more victorious to celebrate a small business reach the decade mark. And what a special business it is.

My first time on Hawai'i as an Adult

2008-09-18T16:28:00.000-07:00

One night in early 2003, I left my yoga class and headed to a (now defunct) art gallery for an opening hosted by 'Gay City'. I knew some people going, and decided to swing by before grabbing dinner and going home.

That night at the gallery show, my friend Gary asked me if I wanted to stay for free in Hawai'i. He'd rented a house that was incredibly cheap, and had already booked his flights and a rental car. I just needed to get my own flight, pay a bit if I wanted to use the car, and handle incidentals like food and drink. It was a bit unlike me, but I went for it - and even scored a seat next to him on the NWA flight. So in April, we flew to Hawai'i.

Our final destination was the Big Island, at a house in the Puna area, but we had a long layover in Honolulu. So we grabbed a bus to Waikiki beach and sipped some cocktails while watching the hordes of people sunbathe, play frisbee, and otherwise frolic. It seems a bit packed, but the drinks were good and it felt good to be in the sun after a long Northwest winter.

When we arrived on the Big Island, it was already very late - so we had to find the house in the dark - during a rainstorm. As we made it to the Kehena area and turned up the street, we found the roads were covered in toads. Big toads. Bigger than your fist toads. Hundreds and hundreds of them. Gary did his best to not hit any, but there was really no way to move the car without doing so. We finally got to the house, unpacked, and settled in.

The rest of the week was a wonderful blur of laying on Kehena beach, driving into Pahoa to get groceries at the natural food store, renting movies at the video store, sipping Coronas, and going on day trips to the Kapoho tide pools, to various waterfalls, up to Volcano, and into Hilo.

It was truly a paradise, and I fell in love with it. Hawai'i became the meter stick by which all the other islands had to be measured up to, for better or for worse.

And that's how my love affair with Hawai'i began.

And interestingly enough, that night at the art gallery was when Gary introduced me to a guy named Dan... who I later married... on the Big Island.

Live Aloha! Festival: A Success

2008-09-18T10:40:00.000-07:00

Auwe! It's already been almost two weeks since the 1st Annual Live Aloha! Festival at Seattle Center.

What a gleaming success. Angela & Danny were the consummate producers - everything ran smoothly and the people just kept coming! One food vendor ran out of food three hours into the festival while the other had to stop to stock up.

We went with plate lunches from Pacific Island Grill (based in Federal Way,WA). `Ono! I had the bbq chicken and kalua pork. Washed it down with a tasty tropical iced tea.

After our lunch, we enjoyed some of the hula and mele. People were pouring in all day long. The Center House was indeed brimming with aloha!

Later we took a lei-making class, taught by our friend Kiapu from the Hawai`i General Store. We learned how to make leis from ti leaves. One trick we learned: use your toes! The juice from the leaves makes it kind of a messy craft, but the result is beautiful. The class was so full, we had to sit on the floor.

Before our volunteer shift began at the Information Desk, we had to get a shave ice. I went with lilikoi while Dan tried a li hing mui/lilikoi mix. It was a perfectly sunny day, and sitting on a bench eating our shave ice made it feel almost like being in Hawai`i.

We met some interesting folks working the info desk, including our new hoa aloha (friend) Gary from Waianae.

We look forward to next year's festival, and hope the Seattle Center FESTAL committee gives us the whole weekend and inclusion into the regular programming. Live Aloha Mau loa!

Distance Learning Courses

2008-09-15T10:07:00.000-07:00

One day this past year while flipping through the Northwest Hawai`i Times I came across an advertisement for A'o Makua, a program offering on-line, distance learning courses in Hawaiian language and culture.

The courses are very inexpensive ($25 and $20 if you are a returning haumana), and they offer generous incentives. For the the first course I completed in February, I received a poster and a biography of Bernice Pauahi Bishop. That course, "Mo‘okū‘auhau - He Inoa ‘Ala" explored the various naming practices in ancient Hawai`i and asked us to consider the modern implications of how we use names. I found it very interesting, and I did find myself pausing to reflect on the importance of a name and how naming a child might influence his or her journey.

Two weeks ago I started on my second course: ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i - Ku‘u Wahi Noho. This is actually the third of a three-part language series and deals with words and expressions one would use to describe his/her hometown/place of residence. Because I have been studying on my own through the 8-CD series put out by Topics Entertainment, I am not completely behind. I do think it would be wise for me to return to the first two classes at some point, though.

A`o Makua uses various platforms to teach and share information. There are audio presentations, video recordings, power point presentations, matching games, quizzes and interactive games. There are also discussion boards that receive frequent traffic, and the instructors offer individual feedback through both message boards and recordings.

Whether you are looking to increase your awareness of Hawaiian culture or ready to dive in and learn the language, A`o Makua offers a time-efficient and affordable way to learn from your own home!

Sharks on the Big Island!

2008-09-10T07:39:00.001-07:00

Sharks are shutting down beaches on the West side of the the Big Island. Read about it here.

Event: Live Aloha! Festival Sunday 9/7 in Seattle

2008-09-06T15:51:00.000-07:00

Another yahoo group

2008-08-06T08:04:00.000-07:00

I forgot to mention this one as it had been mostly inactive the past several months. But there has been a flurry of recent activity, with some people sharing photos and information. This group is more discussion-oriented, as opposed to the NW Hawaiian group that is primarily event listings.

There was a very nice post yesterday about welcoming people into Hawai`i in the spirit of Aloha...something we like to hear as we often fight the guilt of not wanting to take from the land that was taken away. But in most cases respect for all aspects of the islands goes a long way with the locals.

Check it out!

Hawai`i TV Show

2008-08-03T18:12:00.000-07:00

From Bill Nahalea, via the NW Hawaiian mailing list. Bill and Gloria are huge contributors to the local Hawaiian scene here in the PNW. In addition to their television show, they also host a web site (see link below) and organize the annual Kalama Days of Discovery. We have yet to make it down for the event, as we always seem to be out of town. It sounds like it's been a soaring success, and we are eager to be around for it one of these years!

The Hawaii Showcase Television Magazine has
Reached an agreement with KLTV Communty Television
that reaches a viewership of the entire Cowlitz
County Area.

CastleRock, Kelso, Longview, Kalama and Woodland

Our Hawaii Showcase Television Magazine will reach
A Television Reachership of Over 100,000 Weekly!

Offically The Hawaii Showcase Television Magazine
Will be on the Comcast Cable Schedule in September
2008..'STAY TUNED!!!

But Continue to Watch Our Hawaii Showcase Television
Magazine on Thursdays at 7:30pm(LIVE) Channel 29/77
And Streaming LIVE WWW.SCANTV.ORG (AND A REPEAT TV
SHOW AT 1PM)NOW AIRED TWICE A WEEK!

And Other Our Contemporary Hawaiian TV Show in Hawaii
saturdays at 7pm(Taped)"THERE IN THE ISLANDS TELEVISION
MAGAZINE On KWHE TV CH 11, 14, 23, 24(Oahu, Maui, Hilo
Kona) WWW.THEREINTHEISLAN DS.COM

TT PRODUCTIONS SEATTLE AND HAWAII! Promotes Hawaiian
Contemporary Hawaiian Programming "ON CABLE-INTERNET
AND BROADCAST AND WORLDWIDE!!

NOW! WATCH HAWAIIAN PROGRAMMING 4 NIGHTS A WEEK!
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------
SEATTLE ON SCAN TV THURSDAYS AT 7:30PM & FRIDAYS AT 1PM

HAWAII STATEWIDE KWHE TV SATURDAYS AT 7PM

COMING SOON! IN SEPTEMBER KLTV CH 22, 24, 12

Mahalo To All My Loyal Supporters and Television Viewers
During Our 8 Years on the Television Airwaves.

Mahalo,
Bill Nahalea
Producer
Sales, Marketing, Promotions, Publicity

Gloria(Napua) Fujii-Nahalea
Co Producer/Administra tion

www.alohaislandtrea sures.net
www.tornadotelevisi on.bigwebpages. com

Books about Hawai`i

2008-07-31T14:18:00.000-07:00

For the past year, I have almost exclusively read books about Hawai`i. Whether they be about travel, history, indvidual's memoirs, language, food or local culture, I have devoured them.

I first ran into some difficulty finding books about Hawai`i beyond the travel guides, but I've learned how to narrow down searches on amazon and also have discovered a few gems at the Hawai`i General Store in Seattle and Basically Books on our trips to Hilo.

I put together this list, with links to the amazon page for purchase and more information. I'd recommend all of them, and have included a few words on each.

Travel

Ultimate Kaua`i Guidebook, Wizard Publications - The "Bible" series of Hawai`i guidebooks, often known simply as the "blue book." Wizard does a marvelous job, using locals to write about the islands and offering great money-saving tips.

Kaui Underground Guide, Lenore & Mirah Horowitz - We used both the blue book and this one for our trip to Kaua`i and found both very useful. This one had some great restaurant reviews. The two worked well together, as there was different information in each guide.

Big Island Revealed, Wizard Publications - Again, the ultimate source for Big Island travel. Never leave home without it. And you can access their website for updates, or web-only reviews.

Pocket Guide to Lana`i, Marcia Zina Mager & Dennis Aubrey - Lana`i is such a mystery to me, and this helped me gain a sense of what it has to offer for the traveler. The Wizard series does not include Moloka`i or Lana`i, but rather includes bits of information on them in Maui Revealed. It's actually hard to track down travel books exlusively on Lana`i!

Exploring Historic Hilo, Leslie Lang - A pictorial with descriptions of old Hilo town. A great way to connect to the town before visiting, or after you've returned.

Food

Best of the Best from Hawai`i, Gwen McKee & Barbara Moseley - We use this one all the time. Favorite recipes include the scallops with oranges and shrimp curry. Yum!

Big Island Of Hawaii Restaurants And Dining With Hilo And The Kona Coast, Robert Carpenter & Cindy Carpenter - Just got this one in the mail, and look forward to checking it out to see what we've missed!

Chefs of Aloha, Island Heritage Publishing - Picked this one up at a bakery/gift shop on the Big Island. The hearts of palm salad recipe is terrific!

History

Concise History of the Hawaiian Islands, Dr. Phil Barnes - I've read this 3 times. It's just as the title suggests - concise and quickly gets you up to speed on the history of the islands, mostly from unification on. The author also owns the vacation house we stayed at in Puna! I refer back to this one often, for dates or a refresher.

Nana I Ke Kumu (Look to the Source) volume I, Mary Pukui, E.W. Haertig, Catherine A. Lee - I just finished this one. It is written in an encyclopedic format and outlines various ancient Hawaiian terms and the rituals/beliefs attached. It is designed for the Case Worker working with Native Hawaiian clients to better understand their cultural perspective.

Ancient History of the Hawaiian People to the Times of Kamehameha I, Fornander - Just started this one yesterday!

Biography/Memoir

No Footprints in the Sand - A Memoir of Kalaupapa, Henry Kalalahilimoku Nalaielua - A beautiful tale of a man who simply would not let disease and banishment stop him from living his dreams.

Olivia: My Life of Exile in Kalaupapa, Olivia R. Breitha - A similar story, though slightly more angry in tone.

Hawai`i's Story by Hawai`i's Queen, Lili`uokalani - The biography of Hawai`i's last Queen and Royal Sovereign. Details her trips to Europe, her struggle to retain the Monarchy and ultimately her imprisonment.

Pauahi: The Kamehameha Legacy, George H. Kanahele - A product of the Kamehameha Schools, a quick biography of Bernice Pauahi Bishop, whose generosity made the entire school system possible. Interesting insight into an amazing woman.

Aloha Niihau/ Oral Histories, Emalia Licayan; Virginia Nizo and Elama - I read much of this on Kehena Beach in Puna. Three different accounts of life on Ni`ihau - then and now.

Language

Learning Hawaiian Language at Home, Kahikahealani Wight - Comes with a CD. Haven't spent much time with this one yet as I have other CDs I'm learning from (Topics Entertainment)

A Pocket Guide to the Hawaiian Language - A nice introduction to the Hawaiian language

New Pocket Hawaiian Dictionary: With a Concise Grammar and Given Names in Hawaiian, Mary Kawena Pukui - Good reference to have around. We use it often.

Local/Moving to Hawai`i

So You Want to Live in Hawaii: The Guide to Settling and Succeeding in the Islands, Toni Polancy - Some call it too negative, but it's more of a wake-up call for the starry-eyed Mainlander who dreams of packing up and embarking on a lifestyle of fun, sun and mai tais without considering the greater realities of life on the 50th state.

Family Traditions in Hawai`i, Joan Namkoong - Discussion on the various cultural practices of the people who make up the islands, including Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Korean, and Tongan. Holidays, birthdays, weddings, and funeral traditions are described.

Fiction/Folklore

Hotel Honolulu, Paul Theroux - This one doesn't have a whole lot to do with Hawai`i, other than its setting but anyone who knows a bit about the culture will get a kick out of the characters, the Pidgin and the politics they discuss. Also just a good page turner!

La'ieikawai , Dennis Kawaharada - Story of twin sisters who are separated at birth. Hawaiian mythology.

Magazines

Hana Hou - the magazine of Hawaiian Airlines

Hawai`i Magazine

Upcoming Polynesian Festival

2008-07-31T13:50:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Gregg Porter for posting this on the NW Hawaiian mailing list:

More details will be forthcoming, but I wanted to start confirming
the rumors that have been floating around --- there will be a four-
day festival of Hawaiian music, hula & culture on Washington State's
Olympic Peninsula at the beginning of October.

The Olympic Festival of Polynesian Arts and Culture will be centered
on workshops by acclaimed musicians Keoki Kahumoku, Herb Ohta, Jr.
and Sonny Lim. The workshops will be held at The Inn at Port Hadlock;
there will also be connected events at The Upstage Theatre &
Restaurant in Port Townsend.

Events will begin Thursday, October 2, with an opening celebration
concert; there will also be a lu`au on Friday night, a jam session on
Saturday night, and a closing concert Sunday night. Workshops will be
held during the day on Friday, October 3 through Sunday, October 5.

There will be a special lodging deal at The Inn at Port Hadlock for
workshop attendees; information on workshop, event and lodging prices
will be announced shortly, and registration will begin August 15.
This event is co-sponsored by Hawaii Music Live, The Inn at Port
Hadlock and Discovery Arts.

More details will be posted in the near future at
www/hawaiimusiclive.com

Childhood Memories of Hawai'i

2008-07-29T16:54:00.000-07:00

As my first official post, I thought I'd start at the very beginning of my Hawaiian adventures - my first trip to Hawai'i.

I was 3 years old, I believe, when my Dad brought the whole family on a business trip to Honolulu. While he did service calls, my Mom, sister and I spent the days exploring. At least that's what I'm told. I have very few memories of the trip, being so young at the time. Most are memory 'snapshots' - incomplete, blurry pictures from moments of the trip.

The first thing I think I remember of the trip is the Honolulu Aquarium. I remember a pool outside the main building, with some sort of marine mammal inside. I recall being able to walk down some steps to an underground viewing area, where you could watch the seals or dolphins or whatever they were from under water. I also remember the inside of the aquarium being cavernous, and believe I recall seeing an Opah - either stuffed or a real one.

My second memory is even less clear. It's of watching a hula performance in a courtyard below us, and I'm looking through bars, like a railing or something. I think I also remember falling asleep there, though I'm not sure.

And the last memory is the one captured in this photo - of sitting on top of a boat with my sister, sorting through clumps of rock and coral and seaweed, looking for crabs and things. I distinctly remember seeing the little creatures crawling around. This picture (and the memory) were on a glass bottom boat trip we all took together (that's my sister smiling for the camera, my Dad in the cowboy hat and mustache, me in the blue shorts, and my Mom's behind the camera). I could swear my Dad was scuba diving during the boat trip, and was one of the people bringing stuff up for us to look through - but I think that's concocted from other stories of this trip or other trips heard throughout the years, and is most likely a composition of multiple experiences.

The most talked about moment of the trip, however, is something I don't remember at all. Apparently, I decided to walk into the deep end of a swimming pool. I just walked over, stepped in, and sank to the bottom, making no attempt to swim or save myself. From what I'm told, this happened at the hotel pool while my Dad (a former lifeguard) was at work, and my poor Mother can't swim. I guess there was a guy sitting by the pool but he made no effort to help. My sister, just a few years older than me, jumped in and pulled me up to the top of the water, saving my life.

She later became a life guard.

Beach House in Moloka`i

2008-07-29T08:06:00.000-07:00

In late November 2006, we traveled to the little island of Moloka`i. Moloka`i is home to only about 7,000 people, and has the largest Native Hawaiian population outside of Ni`ihau. We flew into Honolulu and then connected on a very tiny airplane into the Moloka`i airport, which is six miles northwest of the main island town of Kaunakakai.

We then got in our rental car and drove east about 25 miles, to the 19 mile marker (19 miles east of town) to the house we found through internet searches. Called simply "Moloka`i Beach House," it proved to be as welcoming and tranquil as we had hoped. We spent six glorious nights there, enjoying the large backyard and private beach. At the time there were only three hotels on the island: Hotel Moloka`i, The Lodge at Moloka`i Ranch (now closed) and the Kaluakoi Hotel/Resort. We ate lunch at Hotel Moloka`i and had both a lunch and dinner at the beautiful Lodge, but were glad to have chosen the beach house.

Driving to town took about 30 minutes so we'd try to stock up on groceries every few days. For the most part, our routine was to cook breakfast and dinner while venturing out for lunch. Kaunakakai has two grocery stores, a liquor store, post-office, organic market, library, ice cream parlor, dive shop, an awesome bakery, a few restaurants and some galleries and gift shops. Not a booming metropolis, but essentially all one needs.

Downtown Kaunakakai

The house has plenty of space, making it a very comfortable place for us to spread out. While we didn't need three bedrooms, we've found that vacations homes with more than one bedroom often have more living space and we really appreciate not feeling like we're on top of one another since we tend to spend a lot of time just relaxing at the house.

View of house from backyard:

Front of house:

Kitchen/dining area:

Main living room: great for napping, reading, gazing out at the sea

Backyard around sunset - that's Maui in the background!

Gazebo in backyard - great for morning coffee or cocktails

Moloka`i is a special place, and this house was just perfect for us. While in a residential neighhorhood, we never saw the neighbors and felt like we had a decent amount of privacy.

More to come on our adventures around the island, including snorkeling, touring an old sugar plantation, exploring the west side of the island (which is mostly closed now) and the Moloka`i Museum.

Other Hawaiian Resources

2008-07-28T09:31:00.000-07:00

There are a plethora of resources out there on the web that we use quite often in gathering information about Hawai`i.

One of our favorites is this site we stumbled upon earlier this year: Hilo Living www.hiloliving.com

A family relocated from the hustle and bustle of Silicon Valley to sleepy Hilo town and document the changes in their new daily lives. The site also links to two different blogs, includes news updates, picture galleries and a calendar of events going on in the Hilo area.

Staying on Hilo, worth checking out is the newly re-styled www.downtownhilo.com. The site offers insightful information into the town's history, attractions and also features a community discussion area where people chat about their recent trips.

The Big Island Weekly is the Big Island's weekly, free alternative paper. It covers issues such as local politics, environmental concerns, upcoming art exhibits, the island music scene and includes a thorough calendar of the week's events across the Big Island.

On a more local front, the Northwest Hawai`i Times is the on-line version of the free monthly paper. It tends to be a month or so behind so we usually pick up the paper at one of the drop locations (Delite Bakery on Beacon Hill, Uwajimaya, Hawai`i General Store, Northshore Hawaiian Barbeque are a few places we've found copies). However, this is a great option when you want to find something in the archives, like that recipe for Okinawan sweep potato pie!

The NW Hawn Calendar is a yahoo mailing list, groups.yahoo.com/group/nwhawncalendar with over 300 members. This is a must if you want to find out about all the Hawaiian music events that go on in the Northwest area. This list has fairly high traffic with two or three messages a day, largely centered around music and hula.

Another great source for Hawaiian music and hula is Pacific Mele. In addition to listing concert dates, the site features interviews with the artists and links to their own web sites.

Local retailers also sometimes offer special events or workshops, such as the Hawai`i General Store in Wallingford or Island Life in SoDo. Both are terrific places to shop for Hawaiiana and island-inspired decor, and are staffed by knowledgable kanaka full of aloha! The Hawai`i General Store also houses a travel agency, specializing in trips to the islands and partnered with Hawaiian Airlines. Several of our wedding guests used this service and were quite impressed with the competitive fares, helpful tips and friendly service.

These are just a few, and we'll post more as we stumble across them. So, hele on, warm up those browsers and show your kokua!

The Best Mai Tai in Seattle

2008-07-25T08:44:00.000-07:00

It's Friday so let's talk about Hawai`i's most celebrated cocktail: the mai tai. There is much debate over both the origins of the mai tai, and the exact recipe. Both Trader Vics and Don the Beachcomber claim to have invented the tropical wonder. One thing is certain, though: the drink originated in California, not Hawai`i. However, as tourism began to soar with the advent of airplanes, the drink quickly became synonymous with Paradise.

All in the name of research, we've sipped our way through many variations of the drink that in Tahitian means "good." The most standard recipe calls for orange juice, pineapple juice, orgeat, lime juice, grenadine, light rum and dark rum. However, some mixologists choose orange caracou over the OJ while others go with a different type of juice altogether. The real "juice," though, is almost always light rum mixed in with a float of dark rum on top.

We can rave about Don the Beachcomber's famed delight that we've had at the Royal Kona or delicious buckets of aloha at Honolulu Airport's Stinger Ray's, but today we shall comment on those more accessible to us. Here we will rate four version of the institution known as the Mai Tai right here in our hometown:

1. 'Ohana - Ohana Mai Tai 8.00
Bacardi Light Rum, Amaretto, orange and pineapple juices, a dash of grenadine, and a float of Myer’s Dark Rum.

We've only been to `Ohana once and we'll get into the food and service in some future post. As for the mai tai, we were not very impressed. In fact, it's our least favorite on the local scene. Too much grenadine and not enough rum made for a lingering, saccharine taste. The Amaretto in lieu of the orgeat is a nice touch if done correctly, though, and we've been inspired to start doing that at home.

2. Hula Hula

Their menu only says "A Blend of Rum & Juices Create this Native Delight." Hula Hula is a relatively new establishment in Seattle's Lower Queen Anne neighborhood. Again, we have only been here once but were impressed with the layout and decor. They even had surfing videos playing behind the bar and the bartender was incredibly friendly.

This one rates fairly high, and deserves an honorable mention. It wasn't too sweet, or toxically strong and the flavors were fresh. Third place, but definitely one to keep on the radar.

3. The Islander

Rum, Apricot Brandy, Crème de Noyeaux, Lime,
Passionfruit, Pineapple Juice, Myer’s Rum Float (8 bucks)

We go to The Islander fairly often, as they have great food, outdoor seating and a wicked drink menu (be careful!). Their mai tai is a bit of a departure, using apricot brandy instead of orange juice and Creme de Noyeaux (an almond liquer) instead of orgeat or amaretto. They serve them in nice tall glasses, and they disappear rapidly. This is one of Seattle's best happy hours all around and home of the second best mai tai in town.

4. Luau

That brings us to the big kahuna, numero uno (or quattro in this list). Hands down the winner for best mai tai in Seattle is Luau Polynesian Lounge in the Green Lake neighborhood.

Kaha Mai Tai
Bacardi Silver, Meyers Dark rum, guava nectar, pineapple juice, Grenadine and the Kaha secret...$6.40

Maybe it's the guava nectar, maybe it's the secret ingredient or perhaps it's the Noon-6pm happy hour when you can suck them down at 5 bucks a pop...this masterpiece is one we always come back to (though Dan G. is currently addicted to their Pina Coladas and that is another post entirely).

We find ourselves at Luau more regularly than any other spot in town, and we don't live very close. Aside from the drinks, the food is `ono and the staff is usually brimming with aloha. We'll be talking about this place often.

Happy Friday. Drink up! A hui hou!

Kaua`i: Beginning overview

2008-07-22T14:46:00.001-07:00

We spent six blissful nights exploring the island and just relaxing at our hotel. Some highlights included a guided tour up the Wailua River (the only navigable river in all of Hawai`i) to the Fern Grotto. It's a popular spot to get married.

We also got to go inside the grotto!

We also hiked down to some beautiful beaches, Donkey Beach and Secret Beach.

The beaches in Kaua`i are pristine, and private.

We also saw Waimea Canyon, which was quite breathtaking.

As were the Wailua Falls.

More to come on our hotel, spouting horn, some tropical gardens, the shave ice and some 'ono grindz!

Welcome to our Hawai`i Blog!

2008-07-18T09:08:00.000-07:00

This will be a place where we can share our Hawaiian adventures - whether they be on the Islands or here in the Pacific Northwest. Lucky for us, the Seattle area Hawaiian scene is thriving with a number of restaurants, music venues, stores, festivals and a monthly newspaper dedicated to all things Hawaiian in relation to those of us living here in the PNW.

In March 2005, we took our first trip to Hawai`i together. Dan G had been twice before: once to Oahu when he was just three years old, and once in 2003 to the Eastern side of the Big Island with a friend.

After doing some research, we decided on Kaua`i. It being Dan D's first trip to the islands, he wanted to see a less-traveled spot. We stayed for six nights in the Radisson Kaua`i hotel/resort (now the Hilton) in the own of Lihue, which conveniently is where the main airport is located. It was a very short drive to the resort, which was laid out beautifully against the Pacific Ocean with its own private (but not swimmable) beach.

After checking in, we wandered down to the pool area for the Manager's happy hour (free mai tais, beer, wine from 5-6pm!). Sitting there sipping the tropical libations, hearing the faint sound of the ukulele against the waves crashing and looking just feet away from the deep blue sea...it was a turning point. The beginning of our now 3-plus year love affair with the archipelago that is the most isolated land on earth. We'll talk about our 6 nights on the Garden Isle more in further posts, and share pictures.

It wasn't until late November 2006 that we returned to once-named Sandwich Islands. This time we decided to check out the Friendly Isle, Moloka`i. Tourism isn't as rampant on Moloka`i, often referred to as the most "Hawaiian" island. With only three hotels to choose from, we decided to rent a house instead. We loved it! It is now our preferred means of lodging, though we still enjoy a few nights in a hotel here and there.

In future posts, we'll share pictures of the marvelous house (right on the beach!) and all the treasures Moloka`i has to offer.

In the Spring of 2007 we became engaged and it wasn't long after that Hawai`i was decided on as our destination. That October we traveled to the Big Island (a favorite of Dan G's) for 10 nights. We first hit Kona for 3 nights in a hotel and then drove to the Puna region and rented a house for 7 nights. It was on this trip that we found the site of our wedding! More on this trip to come...

And then, of course, we come to June 2008. We flew back to the Big Island, this time in reverse of our previous trip. We spent the first 5 nights in Hilo and the next 5 nights in Kona. We were married June 15, 2008 at the Falls at Reeds Island, the location we fell in love with last October. It was a spectacular trip, a beautiful ceremony and solidified our lasting aloha for these islands (and the Big Island in particular). We'll be back soon, probably next Spring or Summer and hope to increase our stay to three weeks.

This blog is dedicated to sharing our love of all things Hawaiian - the food, the culture, the music, the ecology, the history, the people, the language, and the way of life known simply as aloha that continues to inspire us.

Mahalo nui loa na ho'olaule'a me la kaua a Kipa hou mai!